Day 132 - Damascus (10/11/2016)

We cheated today. There was a detour from the Appalachian Trail onto the Virginia Creeper Trail which is a nice flat, wide walking and cycling trail that runs straight into Damascus. When the detour ended and returned up the ridges, we decided to "not see the end of the detour." I don't regret it at all.

First up in Damascus: second breakfast at a diner. Then we did a tour of the three outfitters in town (I bought another layer of Merino wool, and some gloves, and got a free pair of hiking socks from a friendly shop owner). Then we checked in at our hostel (the three of us have a room to ourselves), and headed out for a food resupply.

When we got back, Blueberry Crisp made a spinach and cottage cheese lasagna that could have fed a village, and Flatlander made brownies. We polished off the entire lasagna (with lots of garlic bread), then most of the brownies. This was after eating a pint of grape tomatoes, a snickers bar, half a can of pringles, and a few other snacks. Watching hikers eat is disgusting, but I'm not hungry anymore. For now. I'll probably finish the pringles before bed.

Tomorrow, back on the trail after breakfast. For now, it'll be nice to sleep without my water filter (freezing a Sawyer filter can destroy it, so we keep them in our sleeping bags), and wake up warm.

Start: Saunders Shelter 

End: Woodchuck Hostel, Damascus, VA

Distance: 9.3 miles 

ETA: Nov 30 - Dec 3

Day 131 - Fire! Fire! (9/11/2016)

Today is the two-week anniversary of our little trio hiking together, which is strange for me. I was never the sort to be looking for trail companions. I've had fun hiking with people in several sections (Trout and Pancake especially), but I've always had my own pace and spent most of the trail walking solo. It's a happy coincidence that I've stumbled into a small group with a similar pace, and it's been good for me.

It's especially nice on cold days when it seems worth it to make a camp fire. This was just such a day. Another young Flip Flopper (Torch) was with us as we all sat around a warm fire having dinner. I still had some candles left from Flatlander's 100th celebration, so we drilled holes into Reese's Peanut Butter Cup Minis and had a little anniversary celebration.

Tomorrow we have around 8.5 miles to Damascus, which is basically the end of Virginia. The others have mail to collect and we all need a little gear before we start into Tennessee/North Carolina. It'll be nice to hostel for a night and wake up warm for a change.

But that's tomorrow night. Tonight it'll be another night buried deep in my mummy-style sleeping bag with all my clothes on.

Start: Thomas Knob Shelter 

End: Saunders Shelter

Distance: 18.8 miles

ETA: Nov 30 - Dec 2*

* we've been moving quickly with no neroes lately. I think this is overly optimistic. Dec 3 or 4 seems more likely.

Day 130 - Ponies!! (8/11/2016)

Other than the Shenandoah area, NOBOs tend to rave about the Grayson Highlands. Today was the day we'd finally enter them. It's also the day we leave them. I was expecting a few days, but it turns out the trail only does a few miles there.

It was fun to see wild ponies, but I don't think the late autumn is the best time to be here. I was underwhelmed.

Blueberry Crisp has been very excited to shelter‎ at Thomas Knob, because it's at over 5,000'. I'm less thrilled because a) it's sheltering, and b) it's cold at 5,000'. Blueberry Crisp is even more excited that it might snow tomorrow (rain and cold is forecast, but at this elevation...). Flatlander is less excited.

It was a nice day of walking, and we saw Cinderella and Waterboy several times which always makes me happy. And we got Flatlander to admit Dec 3 might be an OK finish date, so basically she's given up resisting. I think it's because she's afraid of the weather in the Smokey Mountains, and figures her best chance at survival is to stick with the Canadians.

Start: nonexistent campsite 

End: Thomas Knob 

Distance: 21.1 miles

ETA: Nov 30 - Dec 3

Day 129 - Maximalist Hiker Gear (7/11/2016)

Yesterday Flatlander suggested that we pack out fajita supplies during our resupply in Marion today. Blueberry had suggested that we could heat flat stones ‎in a fire and use them to cook. It just so happened that there were tonnes of them about, so we each selected a small one to pack out in case our campsite didn't offer good options.

That's right. After months obsessing about minimizing pack weight, I added a 1lb+ rock to my gear. Waterboy nearly exploded with disbelief when he heard. (I got to see him and Cinderella again!)

After Marion we set out for a campsite that turned out not to exist. I was tired and hangry, so we stealth's there anyway, but without a fire ring there was no fire, and so no need for the stones we'd hauled 19 miles. So we carried rocks for nothing.

Still, the fajitas turned out great. Flatlander is already plotting our special meal after the next resupply.

Start: peak of Glade Mountain

End: nonexistent campsite

Distance: 19.5 miles

ETA: Nov 30 - Dec 3

Day 128 - Water Shortage (6/11/2016)

The time change is messing with us: the day is bright early, but also I'm going to bed at 8pm.

This morning I left camp cold, and waterless because there was a source two miles down the trail and I was running late. Unfortunately (but commonly in this area) that source was dry. On we went with me starting to be more desperate for a drink (Flatlander and Blueberry Crisp were better prepared). We arrived at a campsite and there on a log sat a Gatorade bottle, which Blueberry Crisp uses as garbage cans. He went over, picked it up and said "oh... someone left camp without their water this morning." Which was great, because I needed water badly.

Then, just as I was about to get my water bottles out, Blueberry opened it and slowly dumped the contents onto the ground as I watched in horror. "Oh,... sorry" he said, when he finally glanced up to see the disbelief on my face.

At which point we burst out laughing. Fortunately there was a creek right next to the site, so no harm was done.

Over dinner tonight I found out that both Flatlander and Blueberry Crisp had similar "ground apple" stories to mine, so we're now part of a secret society of people without pride or shame.

Another good day. We've also got Flatlander committed to staying with us until the 20th, and she even admitted she might be willing to delay her finishing date until Dec 2.

Start: Knot Maul Shelter 

End: peak of Glade Mountain

Distance: 20.8 miles

ETA: 1-3 Dec

Day 127 - Sub-zero (5/11/2016)

Last night was as cold as any I've had so far. I woke at 5 and couldn't sleep, but we'd set 7:30 as our departure time so I shivered in my sleeping bag until 6:30. Getting moving would have been the better choice.

Walking was good though my socks are starting to give me blisters. I have two pairs of Darn Toughs, and I love one but hate the other. I may look at replacing one when I get to Damascus. I may also buy more base layers and another pair of gloves: if I was this cold when temps were around 2 Celsius, I need a better solution for camping at 5,000' in the Smokey Mountains.

Still gettin' lots of smiles in though. We're all looking forward to brunch at The Barn tomorrow. I'm glad to have Blueberry Crisp around - he's on top of all the food options along the trail. 

Start: Campsite near cascades

End: Knot Maul Shelter

Distance: 24.5 miles

ETA: 1-4 Dec

Day 126 - Trumpets and Brownies (4/11/2016)

Not a lot on the journal front today. We decided to do midday brownies to celebrate Flatlander's 100th, so we had a campfire (a rarity among hikers) and ate brownies. It turns out the mix with chocolate chips doesn't work as well because the chips burn and stick to the pot more than usual. Still, it was a nice treat.

We continued on until our campsite, and could hear Sleeping Beauty playing his trumpet from a distance. I like Sleeping Beauty. He's fun to chat with. But he's not a terribly good trumpeter, and only knows about 4 bars from around 3 songs, so the trumpet isn't my favourite thing about him. We found some tent pads far enough away to keep the horn at bay.

Another mostly good day, with some good smiles.

Unfortunately I seem not to have data on my phone much in southern VA, so blog updates are falling behind again.

Start: Jenny Knob Shelter 

End: Campsite near some cascades

Distance: 18.8 Miles 

ETA: 30/11 - 7/12

Day 125 - Flatlander's Century (3/11/2016)

Another uneventful day, but full of fun and (s)miles. We'd planned to celebrate Flatlander's 100th day on trail with scrambled brownies (paying it forward after Pancake did the same for my birthday), but had to reschedule for rain delays.

I'm finally getting why NOBOs talked about the long green tunnel in Virginia: we spend a lot of time in rhododendron groves which form a canopy overhead. I think it's beautiful, and can only imagine what it would be like in full bloom.

Start: Docs Knob Shelter 

End: Jenny Knob Shelter

Distance: 24 miles

Finish Date: Dec 1-9 (based on recent mileage)

Day 124 - Spaghetti In My Shoe (2/11/2016)

There was spaghetti in my shoe this morning. We're still confused about a) where the spaghetti came from, b) how it got in my shoe, and c) what it means.

I think it's a miracle of the Flying Spaghetti Monster. Others have blamed squirrels. I guess we'll never know.

Other than my Pastafarian baptism, today was marked by laundry, all you can eat Chinese buffet, friendly Virginians in Pearisburg, and a lot of laughter.

I also finally made it to some mailed treats from my colleagues in Sydney. We stuffed our faces with Tim Tams, Anzac biscuits, and other assorted deliciousness. Thanks so much, friends down under.

Start: Rice Field Shelter 

End: Docs Knob Shelter 

Distance: 15.7 miles

Finish Date: Dec 1-10 (based on recent mileage)

[Ed. Note 2020-10-26: Four years later, Blueberry and Flatlander have admitted that they were the squirrels.]

Day 123 - ABC (1/11/2016)

It's amazing to think that I've now been hiking for four months.

One third of a year.

What a life I've managed to lead.

Today we did 20 miles. Since pairing up with Flatlander, I've done 142 miles in one week. The only other time I've hit those numbers, I was slackpacking with Papa Wallaby. 

Tonight I'm sleeping in a shelter for the first time since probably Maine. There's just Blueberry Crisp, Flatlander, and me here and we're all sheltering. Our campsite last night ended up being overrun with misty clouds, so all our tents/hammocks could benefit from being hung out to dry.

Tomorrow, Pearisburg and a mail drop from my former colleagues in Sydney. I can't wait to get it.

Start: Windy Rock

End: Rice Field Shelter

Distance: 20.4 miles

Day 122 - Hiker Halloween (31/10/2016)

This morning I ignored my alarm and figured I'd get another hour of sleep or so. Turns out I was pretty tired because instead I slept an extra 2 hours. When I woke, I could hear Blueberry Crisp breaking camp, but half expected to find Flatlander already gone. Happily, she was still there. We packed up camp and headed out.

The day was pretty uneventful. The long night's rest was good for me: walking felt fine. We'd settled on sleeping at a campsite with a view at around 20 miles.

In the end we not only landed at a campsite with a view, but we were welcomed with a pre-built fire and complimentary s'mores ! ‎When we got there, there was already a group of day hikers hanging about with a fire. They were just there for the evening, but they told us to help ourselves to their s'mores supplies. Flatlander is a patient marshmallow roasting perfectionist. Not a bad Halloween.

Flatlander is talking about maybe pushing on ahead of us after Pearisburg. Negotiations are still ongoing.

Start: Eastern Continental Divide 

End: Wind Gap viewpoint 

Distance: 20.4 miles

Day 121 - Dragon's Tooth (30/10/2016)

As planned, we all woke up early and headed up to Dragon's Tooth to watch the sunrise. Our plan was not as well thought out as we hoped: the climb was much tougher than anticipated, and we nearly missed sunrise. We got there in the end, and enjoyed one of the most spectacular views on the trail.

The rest of the day was a bit of a struggle. After 80+ miles in 4 days, my body wanted a rest. Blueberry Crisp wanted to do a 16 mile day, while Flatlander is really trying to get us on board with her "no less than 20" mantra. In the end we compromised around 18 miles, which means I've done over 100 miles in 5 days.

Boy are my feet tired.

Still, despite the fatigue, it was a nice day and we made it to 1500 miles! There are no real landmarks tomorrow, so I might be able to just walk at a comfortable pace, though I do need to get to Pearisburg soon to resupply (and get a mail drop!)

For now though, it's time rest my weary bones.

Start: just north of Dragon's Tooth 

End: eastern continental divide

Distance: 18.6 miles

Day 120 - Smilin' and Milin' (29/10/2016)

The plan today was to hit McAfee's Knob, the most photographed feature of the AT (very popular with day hikers), and then race on to Catawba, where Blueberry Crisp had heard that the restaurant Homeplace was worth a hitchhike into town.‎ It turned out to be the kind of day that was both unremarkable, and yet thoroughly enjoyable. We had a good time and some nice chats at the knob, and then an amazingly filling meal @ Homeplace. From there, the nicest southern couple gave us a ride back to the trailhead, including patiently waiting for me to buy a few things I forgot in our last resupply.

It's also been nice having Blueberry Crisp around. I had a conversation in French for the first time in a really long time.

It was all skittles and rainbows today, until I saw my first ever black widow spider*. Crawling past the door to my tent while I set up... <shudder>

Basically I'm just loving the trail right now, and looking forward to Dragon's Tooth at sunrise and 1,500 miles tomorrow. As Flatlander put it when I told her to focus on smiles, not miles: "I'm smilin' *and* milin'."

Start: Lambert's Meadow Campsite 

End: tentsite just north of Dragon's Tooth 

Distance: 17.5 (s)miles

* there is now one less black widow spider in the world. You're welcome.

Day 119 - the percentage of the beast (28/10/2016)

Things that happened today:

- 5:15 am wake up

- 10 fast miles into Troutville

- pass the 66.6% point

- shower and laundry 

- race to Daleville (1.5 miles)

- BBQ and resupply

- race to 9 miles to campsite 

- stop to climb Hay Rock for sunset

So after my first day beginning and ending my hike with a headlamp, I'm too tired to add more.

Start: Wilson Shelter 

End: Lambert's Meadow Campsite

Distance: 20.3 miles

Day 118 - (27/10/2016)

Another early start this morning, with Flatlander and I hitting the trail at 7. Nothing really remarkable to note. More beautiful autumn hiking, and some nice views. Near the end of our day we ran into a friendly couple who were out watching for hawks. They gave us water, pretzels, goldfish, and grapes and we had a good chat. Blueberry Crisp (a hiker from Québec City) caught up to us, and we all three made our way to the shelter.

Tomorrow we head into Townville for showers and laundry at the fire hall , then on to Daleville for resupply and BBQ!

Start: tentsite

End: Wilson Shelter 

Distance: 23.9 miles

Day 117 - Throw me the idol; I’ll throw you the whip! (26/10/2016)

Flatlander and I had planned to get up early, have breakfast at Bosses, then try our luck with an early morning hitch to the trailhead. Breakfast was foiled by Bosses bring closed on Wednesdays. We made do with breakfast sandwiches from the grocery freezer.

We lucked out on the ride, though. A former thru-hiker who was on his way to do some trail work saw us, turned around, and gave us a ride so we hit the trail at 8am.

Mostly we hiked separately, but met for lunch, and to play on the Guillotine. Flatlander and I are on different schedules, so I imagine she'll dart off ahead eventually, but it was nice to have a hiking buddy again for the day.

Speaking of hiking buddies, Pancake had to have a root canal done today, so cross your fingers that she recovers quickly.

Start: Glasgow, VA

End: Campsite below Floyd Mountain

Distance: 21.5 miles

Day 116 - Dog Days of Autumn (25/10/2016)

Coldest morning to date. Temperatures dropped to 2 Celsius, which would have been colder at elevation. The wind didn't help. Between that and the start of an illness (a cold, of course), it was a slow start. And an odd one.

Around a half hour into my walk, I saw a motionless lump in the middle of the trail. Now, the trail here was narrow, and with a steep ascent on my left, and a steep drop on the right. I thought maybe someone had dropped a piece of gear. Until it lifted its head and i realized it was a dog! Clearly a family pet, since it had both a collar with a bell on it, and either a bark collar, or an invisible fence collar. In any case, I tried to get her to come to me but she was very wary and immediately started down the trail. She'd go up a but, stop and look back, then when I got too close she'd move on again. Eventually I lost her at a fork in the road where I think she took the side trail.

Too bad. I'd built up a little fantasy where her owners didn't want her back, so I had her join me all the way to Springer. In any case, I hope her family finds her soon.

The day ended in Glasgow, VA when I (and 3 other hikers) waited over two hours for a hitch into town. It turned out there was a nice town-provided shelter with power and a hot shower. That and the chance to have some wine and play gin rummy was enough to keep me in place.

Start: near Saltlog Gap

End: Glasgow VA

Distance: 8 miles

Day 115 - Congrats, Beef Jerky! (24/10/2016)

I finally got to watch a beautiful sunrise this morning.

Other than that, just another day on the trail. I met a section hiker who had been doing the trail a week at a time from age 13. He took a shine to me and I scored some free food (he had a resupply coming up and was all too happy to lighten his load).

Also I heard from Beef Jerky that he's completed his trail, which makes him officially the first person I know on the trail to finish. He says he still eats like a hiker a week and a half later, so he's putting on weight.

A solid hiking day, I think.

Start: near Tar Jacket Ridge

End: just before Saltlog Gap

Distance: 21.7 miles

Day 114 - That's me in the spotlight (23/10/2016)

Another cold morning, but it turns out that climbing a long hill keeps you warm. And The Priest is a loooooong hill. It's never particularly tough, but it felt like it would never end. Kinda like going to mass when I was a kid. I guess that's how they named it.

It did end, though, eventually, and I started the ridge crossing. It was beautiful. The leaves now cover the ground completely in most places, so every step is announced by the dry crunching under foot. I love autumn hiking.

For lunch, I stopped on Spy Rock. I'd planned a quick lunch to make up for the slow climb in the morning, but struck up a conversation with a nearby couple. They were very curious about the Trail and life on it. I've gotten so used to it that I forget how remarkable it is to experience it. I'm glad I lengthened my lunch to keep the chat going.

Later I met a pair of day hikers who shared their fresh fruit (!) and gave me a packet of ProBar chews. They're sort of like GU Chews, but taste good. I may try to order some for down trail.

I didn't get my usual mileage today, but as usual, the reasons were well worth the time.

Start: VA 56

End: near Tar Jacket Ridge

Distance: 17.7 miles

Days 112 and 113 - How many loko? (21-22/10/2016)

I was both eager to be back on the trail, but in no mood to try for miles. I decided to head out early afternoon, and aim for 8 or 9 miles. Good thing, since rains came hard in late morning... and it meant I got to see Shakespeare and Flatlander again! I don't know how, but I ended up ahead of them. Life on the trail is a constant surprise.

I pitched a tent near the top of Humpback Mountain. I knew we were in for a cold night, but now there was also a wind advisory. After my last attempt to cook in wind, I was cleverer this time. I pitched my tent to block the wind, then set up a cook area inside my vestibule on on other side.

It didn't work. Another dinner of half-cooked pasta and lukewarm chicken soup. I think I just need to use more fuel in cold weather.

The night was nice. I stayed cozy and warm until my alarm went off.

The morning was cold. Very, very cold. For the first time I wore all three layers of tops + my wind/rain jacket, two layers of bottoms, my toque and my gloves to walk. It was just enough to keep me comfortable, mainly because the high winds were around for ages. Still, I managed and it was a beautiful day for walking. Gradually I stripped down to my usual hiking attire, though I never took the windbreaker off.

Around noon I walked past a camping spot and noticed a beverage can nestled into some tree branches. As usual I was annoyed that anyone who left trash behind, until I noticed it was unopened... free drink!

It turns out it was a can of something called Four Loko. I'd never had one before, so I decided to try it at lunch. I knew it was a sort of sweet alcoholic cooler type drink.

Turns out it is a sweet alcoholic cooler type drink that has 12% alcohol. It was like drinking 3/4 of a bottle of wine. For the second time, I found myself accidentally hiking drunk. This time, though, it didn't seem to slow me down. Maybe I even hike better drunk?

Tomorrow morning, I climb The Priest: a 3 mile, 3,000 ft climb.

And now the blog is officially caught up to me! I'll try to keep that up, but data service has been spotty lately.

Start: Waynesboro, PA

End: VA 56

Distance: 29.8 (10.6 + 19.2)