Day 9 - Wreck Beach

Date: 18/12

Well they weren't kidding. The trail did get a lot more challenging today, and I did some damage to my Snickers supply at dinner.

As usual, my early start meant a lot of kangaroos:

Roos in the Mist

How many roos can you see?

At one point, I felt like I was back in Tennessee on the AT.

Déjà vu

The original roos.

Most of the walking was steep descents and then steep ascents. The rewards were non-stop though. Every point I climbed over offered stunning coastal views, and every descent yielded beautiful rainforest like growth and beaches.

Some of the wildlife was exciting, in the sense that I almost stepped on what appeared to be a mulga snake, which is odd because they aren't typical this far south. Just another Queenslander escaping the humidity for a holiday on the south coast I guess. Still, nothing gets your heart pumping faster than one of Australia's native people-killers rearing up into a strike position. I looked into its eyes and there was nothing but darkness there. I guess I backed off far enough to make it happy though, since it eventually just slithered its little soul-less self across the path and out of (my) harm's way.

"Please don't kill me please don't kill me please don't kill me"
(looking closer, I think it's an Eastern Brown)

There were also some more benign encounters.

The rest of the day was less eventful. I managed to hit Wreck Beach just after low tide which meant I could explore it a bit. The ruined anchors and machinery from destroyed ships are a nice reminder of why I don't fuck with the ocean. I made sure to get past any narrow bits long before the tides rolled in and made camp around 5pm.

Pretty sure this one didn't actually land like this.

I swear I'm not just downloading Google Images.

Devil's Kitchen Campground should be renamed Dunnyview, because the toilet block has an absolutely stunning view. If there had been a decent sunset, this is where I would have come to see it. Sadly the clouds ruined my sunset once again, but not before I snapped some beautiful shots of Wreck Beach in the golden light.

'Waiter, could you seat me near a window?"

"Will this do?"

Once again, looking away from the sunset paid off.

Final day tomorrow, which means both the 12 Apostles, and a meal that isn't made of wraps or ramen. To the finish!

Day 3 - Coast to City

Date: 12/12

This morning began with one of the most beautiful sunrises these eyes have ever seen. Sometimes it's really worth getting up when the alarm goes off.

There weren't any cafes nearby and those that were didn't open until 8, so I made it an hour to Orbost by the time I had time to plan my day. There were a few options but most of them involved adding several hours to my already long driving day. One that seemed like it might be worth a quick detour was the Noojee Trestle Bridge.

It turns out that this meant driving through the stunning Gippsland region and into the Yarra Valley. Winding roads took me through valleys of farmland for hours before plunging me into lush river valleys that had even narrower winding roads with the added fun of trying not to be crushed by logging trucks.

This is especially hard when every 3 seconds you're trying to get a glance at the scenery.

Somehow I managed and even found a few places where I could pull out safely and take some photos. I'm really glad I told Google Maps to avoid highways.

After a few false turns, I managed to find my way to the Trestle Bridge. This is not just your average Trestle Bridge. It is an enormous, towering Trestle Bridge. It also seems a bit pointless, since there are easy walking tracks to either end from below, but still. It makes for a hell of a photo setting. I was there alone and it seemed like not many people could be bothered to trek out to it. I was happily taking a pile of photos when suddenly the car park was overrun with other visitors including a large bike club. It seems all my detours worked to give me the bridge to myself for a half hour.

I'm up there at the top

After the trestle bridge and a spot of lunch in Yarra Junction, I motored my way to the city again. I'll be staying with friends for a couple of days while I get myself together for the Great Ocean Walk.

Tomorrow will probably be a silent day, since I'll mainly be focused on logistics. Even glamorous lifestyle icons like me sometimes just need a day to book hotels and buy toothpaste.

Day 2 - Sapphire Coast and Victoria

Grabbed breakfast in Batemans Bay and settled on getting to Binn Beach campground in the northern part of the Victoria coast. Was just about to leave when I noticed that there might be some good shots of the bridge available so off I went to the foreshore. Before turning my eye to the bridge though, I saw a bunch of pelicans and below them in the water, stingrays!! Huge stingrays, and these are the first I've seen in the wild. Took piles of photos, and then headed out.

Did not take pictures of the bridge.

Wild stingray!

Most of the rest of the day was just driving, but I did pop into a nostalgic favourite, Eden. I rang in New Year's 2014 with friends in this little town, and it's still one of my best memories of my time in Sydney.

Farmland

On the way to Victoria I jetted out to Green Cape to see the lighthouse. Lighthouses always make me think of the aunt who once hosted me and 7 of my friends on our way into and out of a canoe trip in Northern Ontario. My friends still talk about the full turkey dinner we arrived to after a long week of canoeing.

Green Cape Lighthouse

My campsite tonight is much more what I had in mind. It's a little spot near the ocean, and I can hear the surf battering the beach across the dunes. I spent a few minutes on the beach near sunset, but the wind has the sand whipping around a little too much for my liking. Still, it'll be nice to have a quiet night lulled to sleep by ocean sounds.

I guess this is why they make those machines.

Sunset/Moonrise at Binn Beach

Day 1 - NSW Southern Highlands and South Coast

Today is mostly going to be treading old ground. To get to Melbourne in 3 days I only need to do about 300kms per day, and I've been to most regions that close to Sydney already. Between orienteering, obstacle races and bushwalking, it's all familiar. The only difference is that I usually have a specific destination in mind and end up racing past a lot of places while thinking "I really need to come back here and look around a bit more."

The Sea Cliff Bridge is one of those places. I've probably driven it a dozen times in each direction, and have always wanted to come and take a closer look. Today, I finally got the chance. Though I left a bit later than planned, I had lots of time to make camp before dark so I could afford to stop and enjoy the views from Bald Hill and walk the bridge a little bit. I even managed to suss out a small hidden track to a higher vantage point and get some more interesting angles. I don't think I'd previously noticed the remnants of the old road still clinging to the cliff edge, while the new one snaked its way around further out over the water.

 

Sea Cliff Bridge, NSW

Other than that, there isn't much to note. My first planned campsite seemed like a beautiful spot overlooking the ocean, but turned out to be full even on a Monday. I scrambled to find another option and ended up at a small campsite along the Clyde River. It doesn't have the majesty of North Head Campground, but it offers that other thing I love most when camping: solitude. There are only two other couples here and both of them are in vans so I have the tent area all to my lonesome. So here I am, swaying gently in my hammock, writing blog posts, on the other side of the planet from where I wrote my final posts on the AT barely two years ago.

It's an ok life I'm leading.

NSW and Victoria Adventure

For some administrative reasons, I had to take a lot of my annual leave in December this year, which left me with most of the month off. To fill the couple of weeks before Xmas, I've set out to hike the Great Ocean Walk, a 100+ km coastal walk near Melbourne.

The plan is to take three days to drive the NSW and Victoria coasts before stopping to visit friends in Melbourne for a couple of days. Then I'll head to the start of the GOW, and spend 5 days hiking the beaches, forests, and rivers, terminating at The 12 Apostles. A bus ride back to my car and I'll head back to Sydney, but crossing through country Victoria and the NSW interior.

As with the AT, I'll post each day in sequence. Like a lot my travel these days, I'm treating it as a bit of a photo expedition (see my 500px profile for a recent trip to Vietnam, or follow my Instagram). I've brought my DSLR and will be hauling it along everywhere with some others gear.

I don't have my laptop to deal with the photos so you're probably seeing all of these posts after I've completed. Which means there's no need to panic no matter what I post. If you're seeing these, it all turned out fine.

Onwards!