Day 58 - Wily Wallaby (28/8/2016)

So I've now finished Vermont, and entered Massachusetts. Vermont started with beautiful gentle terrain, and descended into a muddy hellscape*. I had my rainiest experience there, but also my biggest miles. The people were the nicest, but also the craziest. Here's a list of conspiracies that featured in my interactions here:

• Contrails
• Fixed elections
• Bigfoot

And my personal favourite:

• Lyme disease is because of chemicals the government is putting in the water

Massachusetts from Vermont

So far, Massachusetts has been like someone flipped a switch. The mud disappeared as soon as I crossed the line, to be replaced by piles of rock reminiscent of New Hampshire. Definitely the most abrupt change across state lines that I've experienced so far.

Vermont from Massachusetts

My plan had been to get to North Adams as early as possible, get dinner and food resupply, then camp down. It turns out that most of the trail near town is in the watershed, so camping is prohibited. I camped down illegally about a mile in from the road. I found dinner and food, and then, under cover of darkness, I slinked back to my tent.

 To the list of "hard things" I'll add "finding a bear hang in the dark".

My next stop will be Great Barrington, where friends will collect me for a weekend in NYC, and then some hiking in Massachusetts and Connecticut.

* hellscape might be an exaggeration ‎

Start: VT 9

End: my secret lair

Distance: 17.5 miles

Day 57 - Trail Training (27/8/2016)

Still really focused on miles. I have to get to the other side of Massachusetts by the 2nd of September, so it's all go, all the time now.

I've been thinking a lot about how my running background contributes on the trail. You might think that it would make me relatively fast. The thing is, running gives you good cardio, but it doesn't prepare your body for 8-12 hours of walking on rough terrain with 25-40 lbs on your back. Cardio is useless if your muscles, tendons, and joints can't keep up. This is why a lot of runners find themselves with overuse injuries on the trail.

That said, I have noticed a few benefits (I think).

1. Injury detection and prevention
   Running has taught me how to know that a problem is forming and when to ease off. Between my running injuries and physio, and my crossfit years, I have a pretty good arsenal of stretches to help head off injuries before they get serious.
2. Mental vs physical weakness
   Some days, it's hard to put in miles. Sometimes that's because I'm physically exhausted and my body genuinely needs a break. Other times, it's more psychological and I'm really just being a weenie. Training for runs seems to help me know which is which.
3. Willpower
   When I'm just being a weenie, you just have to get over it and get the job done. Treating training as work has helped me get through the weenieness 90% of the time. (The other 10% of the time is ok - sometimes you need a mental break too.)

Just some random thoughts as I put in miles. I haven't been immune to injuries, but I think running has helped me deal with them.

Start: Story Spring + 1.5 miles

End: VT 9

Distance: 16.6 miles

Day 56 - The Brown Carpet State (26/8/2016)

Vermont went from being a beautiful carpet of red pine needles, to a messy bog of mud on the trail. Admittedly, it just rained, but it seems that southern Vermont is very different from northern Vermont.

Since I've been so focussed on miles lately, there haven't been a lot of great interactions. Either that, or the great interactions are beginning to feel commonplace. In any case, I thought I'd take this opportunity to tell the apple story.

Way back in the 100 Mile Wilderness, most of us were craving some real food pretty badly. Being a week from any chance at a hamburger will do that to a person. Most people craved burgers, pizza, that sort of thing. Not me. Me, I craved a tomato. Or an orange, or something fresh, fruity, and juicy.

So on this day, I was walking in the rain and generally just thinking about tomatoes. I came upon a sandy beach, and went and looked out over a pond on a misty, rainy day. It was really very serene. Glancing up the beach to my left, I noticed something round and yellowish red at the edge of the water. "Taipan," I said to myself (since I was still going as Taipan then), "that appears to be an apple."

I looked at it for a long, long time. I eventually decided that I should at least go and throw it in the bushes so that it didn't sully the wilderness feel of the beach. I wandered over and picked it up. In my hand was the most perfect apple I had ever seen. It had a small bruise less than the size of my thumbnail, and only lightly brown. This imperfection only highlighted how perfect a piece of fruit my eyes were gazing upon. I looked at it for a long, long time again. "Taipan", I said to myself, "this is a perfectly good apple that someone has just accidentally dropped, probably moments ago." And then "Are you really going to throw this away?"

And I looked at that apple for a very long time. And I brushed away some small sandy pebbles that the beach had decorated it with.

And that was the most delicious apple I have ever, or will ever eat. I refuse to apologize for eating a dirty beach apple, for it would have been an insult to all of the apple, nay all of the FRUIT, kingdom, had I simply tossed it in the bushes for the worms. That apple ended its existence as nobly as any apple ever has.

And apparently that story has become well enough known that my name is now synonymous with being the "apple guy."

Start: Spruce Peak + 1 mile
End: Story Spring + 1.5 miles
Distance: 19.5 miles

Day 55 - Bear Safety (25/8/2016)

When I mentioned this project to a lot of people, they usually started out asking me about bears. Bears are a serious concern on the AT, no question. As a result, I'm kind of a stickler for bear safety:

1. I always hang my food, including cookware, at least 60 yds from my tent.
2. A good bear hang is 10' above the ground, 5' away from any tree trunks, and 5' down from a branch that would not support the weight of a bear.
3. My cooking area is 60 yds from my tent and also 60 yds from my bear hang.
4. Toothpaste smells like food to a bear, so it goes in the bear hang as well.

I do as many of those things as I can, as carefully as I can.

When it's dry.

When it's raining hard, my rules become more like this:

1. I haven't seen a bear in a couple of days. That one isn't near here. Probably.
2. Bears probably hate the rain too.
3. I've smelled like pepperoni before, so if bears were really a threat I'd be dead already.
4. Bear hangs are a stupid idea. If the food is with me, at least I have some chance of defending it.
1. Don't get wet for stupid ideas.
5. If toothpaste were food, hikers would already have eaten the whole tube.
6. Having dinner inside your tent puts a barrier between your food and the bears. Besides, bears know how stupid it is to eat in the rain, so they won't bother you. Don't be dumber than a bear.

Tonight it's raining, and it turns out macaroni makes a nice pillow. Like a bean bag.

Start: Bromley + 1 mile

End: Spruce Peak Shelter + 1 mile

Distance: 4.8 miles (with a stop in Manchester Center)

Day 52 - Tribes by the Dozen (22/8/2016)

I think I might have forgotten to mention that I saw my first bear the other day. A young one, running away (as they usually are).

Today was a good day. I wanted to hit the library before heading out on the trail, so I found myself with 45 minutes to kill. This meant I could chat with the barista at the Yellow Deli, and find out a bit more about the community. I can't say that I learned all that much, really, except that they are quite fond of Yeshua (Jesus), and aren't all that Judaism inspired after all. He did pique my curiosity a bit though, so I'll try to visit the other Yellow Delis as I travel the trail and learn more.

I'm back to chasing miles today. I did about 13 in 6 hours, including hitting the 500 mile mark! (That would be more impressive if I wasn't supposed to be at 744.) Still, setting mileage targets and hitting them seems to be what I need right now. I'll get back to being "in the moment" when I'm more caught up.

Start: US 4
End: around the 501 mile mark
Distance: 12.6 miles

Day 51 - The Red Carpet State (21/8/2016)

This morning I woke up determined to cover the 12 miles to Rutland in a reasonable amount of time. I set out with the goal of keeping 2 miles/hr including any rest time. It turns out that Vermont made this easy. Vermont is essentially a long, soft, red carpet.

The Red Carpet State

My only real delay was for some trail magic (hamburgers)!

Tonight I'm staying at the Yellow Deli & Hiker Hostel. Yellow Delis are run by the 12 Tribes, which is a religious community (read commune/cult). I'd hoped to spend more time finding out about them, but when you have to resupply and you've already lost a few days in Hanover, it's hard to fit some anthropology into your day. I did, however, have dinner at the deli, and I can say with certainty that they make amazing sandwiches and the fruit salad was impressive.

Also, despite being a commune, they are very welcoming and inclusive. Here's the label on the deli bathroom doors (note that they do segregate men and women in the hostel, which is unusual):

 And this card was in my "welcome basket" on my bed:

And everything hostel-related is by donation or work-for-stay.

So whatever else you might hear about them, they are genuine in their desire to support people.

Start: mile 475
End: US 4, near Killington
Distance: 13.4 miles

Day 50 - People of the half century (20/8/2016)

I've been having real motivational problems lately. THis morning I couldn't get myself started until 9AM after making myself some coffee (which I haven't done yet on the trail - thanks Evergreen). Then I made it 15 mins before pausing for a long conversation with a NOBO.

The good thing about those conversations is that they usually inspire me to start walking again. Of course if you need an hour of conversation for every hour of walking, you don't get far. But I hit the trail reenergized and made it to a shelter for water. Then lunch. Then a nap. When I got started again it was 2PM and I'd walked around 3 miles, with little interest in doing more.

I forced myself 2 miles and ran into Passport. Passport had done 900 miles of the PCT earlier this year and was doing a section of the AT now. We had similar world and hiking philosophies and so another inspiring chat ensued. By the time I left there, it was 4PM and I'd done 5 miles. I managed 5 more before camping down.

I need to find a way to keep walking without taking 4 hours of rest every day.

Start: VT 12 + 1 mile
End: around the 475 mile mark
Distance: 10.5 miles

Day 49 - Zzzzzz (19/8/2016)

I'm exhausted today. Captain Stash lives on a train line near a road. Had some great magic and convos. Here's a bullet list:

• Linda and the Trail Magic House: Two blocks from Stash's is a large blue barn with an AT symbol an free breakfast.
• Evergreen: a great guy I met during a break who gave me coffee crystals since he had a resupply coming.
• Puddle: a U Waterloo alumnus!
• Honey Bear and Sunny: Two hikers slacking themselves for a bit. They had a veggie burger, onion rings and wine for me.

There was a field of cows that if I wasn't so tired, would make for a funny story. Another day perhaps.

Start: Stash and Cathy's

End: VT 12 + 1 mile

Distance: 13.8 miles

Day 48 - Green Mountain State (18/8/2016)

My package arrived yesterday, so it's back on the trail. Rather, it *arrived* on Friday, but the postal clerk finally *saw* it yesterday.

I've only seen Norwich so far, but right now the people of Vermont seem like the most generous I've met.

After 3 nights with Jennie at the Episcopal Church, I was about to leave town when I stumbled on a local cafe. The owners were abroad and had planned to close the shop, but the community rallied and were keeping it open as volunteers. The proceeds are going to charity. I had a latté (quite a good one, actually.)

When I did finally leave, I only made it 8 miles before I stumbled on a house with an AT sign and a camping symbol on it. I wandered onto the property, and meet Captain Stash. Captain did the PCT 40 years ago then accidentally bought a house on the AT. Now he and his partner Cathy let hikers camp there. Not only that, but Cathy gave me free reign in her vegetable garden. Fresh veggies on the trail! For dinner I had a cucumber and tomato salad with basil, and then stir fried some green beans, peppers, and broccoli to mix in with mashed potatoes. Delicious!

At the Norwich post office, I discovered the postal clerk had been discreetly hiding the "Charlton Heston" stamps because they don't sell well in Vermont.

This is a great state, and I've seen less than 10 miles of it.

Also managed to connect with Eskimo and Littlefoot over a drink at Starbucks. All in all, a good day.

Start: St. Barnabas Episcopal Church
End: Captain Stash and Cathy's, West Hartford
Distance: 7.2 very friendly miles

Days 45 and 46 - Hanover your gear! (15-16/8/2016)

I arrived in Hanover, went to the post office and discovered that my bounce box is missing. My bounce box holds the next map I need, most of my guide for the trail, cables and such for charging my watch and camera, clothes for town, one of my notebooks, and some other stuff that I'd really prefer to have.

So the last two days have been mostly preoccupied with food and finding my mailbox. So far, no one has any idea where the mail might be. I will say, though, that the USPS staff have been extremely generous with their time and energy. With any luck, it'll turn up soon.

Hanover, NH is easily the most hiker friendly town I've ever been too. One pizza place gives every thru-hiker a free slice of pizza, another bakery gives us a free donut or muffin. There's a community centre that will let you store your pack for the day, and offers cheap showers and laundry. There aren't many hostels, but the local college keeps a list of people who are willing to host hikers (trail angels). It's a busy time, so it took me a while to find someone with space but last night I stayed with the priest at an episcopal church just across the state line in Norwich, Vermont. This means that I've officially passed the 20% mark!

The minister also has a puppy, who woke me up this morning by a) licking my face, and b) stealing my cheese. I got up, had coffee, and joined the minister and her puppy on their morning park visit. God I love dogs.

My attempt to hold my feet together...

There's also some very good options for outfitters, so I've been able to replace my shoes, buy a new shirt, get a map to replace the one in my bounce box, and replace Pouch's rain cover!

I wasn't planning to zero here, but since I'm waiting on news about my mail I'll have to. I could do worse - there are some really nice places for food and drink here, and I haven't had time to try them all yet.

Start: um. Mile 425 or so.
End: Norwich, VT (though to be fair, I took a bus from Hanover to Norwich)
Distance: 18.3 miles