Day 10 - The 12 Apostles

Date: 19/12

There wasn't much to see between Devil's Kitchen and the end of the trail at the 12 Apostles. About 7km from the end, I left most of my gear at the hostel I'd be staying at which made for light walking. There was also a nice little wetlands boardwalk between the track and the hostel.

Wetlands near Princetown, Victoria

My first glimpse of the Apostles

The Apostles were interesting, but even mid-afternoon on a Wednesday they are overrun with tourists. I managed a few photos, and then headed off to the visitor centre to get a coffee and something warm to eat for the first time in 5 days.

Well, that's me done then.

Two of the 8 remaining Apostles. There were never 12. 

A few more apostles. One collapsed a few years back.

While snacking on a sausage roll at the end of the trail, I chatted with a family from California and a German woman with a lot of walking under her boots. We talked about great hikes we'd done and I managed to show her an echidna just before she left Australia to return to Europe (no good pics, sadly).

The hostel (The 13th Apostle, in Princetown) was great. The hosts were incredibly helpful and friendly, and the whole thing reminded me a lot of the better hostels along the AT. After 5 days of walking, I wasn't all that social so I mostly just headed to the local tavern for a pizza and some beer and then crawled into bed. It was a busy hostel, and the young'uns were up to party though, so thank God for ear plugs. (Actually, they were loud right up to almost exactly 11pm and then immediately went silent, so it was one of the more considerate backpacker groups I've encountered.)

I did (finally) manage to get a sunset here. Not quite the rugged coastal setting I would have liked, but it will do.

Oh sure, NOW the sky lights up like a painting.

In the end, the Great Ocean Walk was terrifically rewarding. I'd recommend it for anyone looking to do 5-7 days. It's not too challenging, and there is tonnes of natural beauty to keep you going. Altogether a great way to kick off my holidays.

Tomorrow, I shuttle back to my car and head home.

Day 111 - Waynesboro VA (20/10/2016)

I had planned to head out at 7am again this morning but clouds rolled in and made it too dark to walk without a headlamp. I was forced to sit and have a coffee while waiting for the sun to rise a bit and brighten the day. It was a nice leisurely start, but also meant that I had to do 8 miles in 2.5 hrs to meet Karen for my ride to Waynesboro. That would usually be OK, but for some reason the last few miles of Shenandoah are quite a bit more challenging than the first 100. Still, I managed to make it and am glad to avoid hiking in the hot, humid air for today.

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I had the great fortune of riding with Karen, her husband Jack, and their two beautiful Golden Retrievers. I tried to "borrow" one until December, but Karen kept a wary eye on me. Since they were generous enough to drive me to an outfitter for a gear resupply, and then to a diner for breakfast, I didn't steal their dogs (also, Karen knew to watch me like a hawk).

After a breakfast fit for a hiker (good, but more importantly, huge) I headed to my hostel, where I found Cinderella and Waterboy as expected. Less expectedly, I also found Timber and PinkyPurple!!* C and W are ahead of me now, having arrived last night, but T and PP are sticking around so I'll get to catch up with them.

All in all, a rewarding nero.

Start: just north of Calf Mountain 

End: Waynesboro VA 

Distance: 8 miles

* I'm a bit sad that Timber and Legs are now separated. They were my favourite trail "couple" and I really thought they'd hike the whole way together.

Days 94 & 95 - Hiker HIITs & Duncannon (3-4/10/2016)

Off trail, there were two things I loved: running and high intensity interval training (HIIT). I'd been missing those, so I decided to create a sort of hiker version. The idea is to walk at a really fast pace (3-3.5 mph) for 60-90 minutes, rest, and repeat. Doing that, I managed around 20 miles yesterday, which meant that I caught up to Pancake again (she'd done a big day the day before).

Trout is doing big miles these days, so he's well ahead at the moment.

Today we headed into Duncannon. I can best describe Duncannon as a Trump-loving shit hole. We camped for $5 beside a train track, Pancake got herself thrown out of The Doyle for daring to visit with Trout, and we generally just had a great time in a small conservative town with friendly people. I won't be sad to leave, but I'll remember it fondly.

I'm also having serious problems with my phone these days. I'm pretty sure it's about to die.

Start: around 1005.8
End: 1041.5
Distance: 35.7 miles (20.6 + 15.1)

Day 52 - Tribes by the Dozen (22/8/2016)

I think I might have forgotten to mention that I saw my first bear the other day. A young one, running away (as they usually are).

Today was a good day. I wanted to hit the library before heading out on the trail, so I found myself with 45 minutes to kill. This meant I could chat with the barista at the Yellow Deli, and find out a bit more about the community. I can't say that I learned all that much, really, except that they are quite fond of Yeshua (Jesus), and aren't all that Judaism inspired after all. He did pique my curiosity a bit though, so I'll try to visit the other Yellow Delis as I travel the trail and learn more.

I'm back to chasing miles today. I did about 13 in 6 hours, including hitting the 500 mile mark! (That would be more impressive if I wasn't supposed to be at 744.) Still, setting mileage targets and hitting them seems to be what I need right now. I'll get back to being "in the moment" when I'm more caught up.

Start: US 4
End: around the 501 mile mark
Distance: 12.6 miles

Day 51 - The Red Carpet State (21/8/2016)

This morning I woke up determined to cover the 12 miles to Rutland in a reasonable amount of time. I set out with the goal of keeping 2 miles/hr including any rest time. It turns out that Vermont made this easy. Vermont is essentially a long, soft, red carpet.

The Red Carpet State

My only real delay was for some trail magic (hamburgers)!

Tonight I'm staying at the Yellow Deli & Hiker Hostel. Yellow Delis are run by the 12 Tribes, which is a religious community (read commune/cult). I'd hoped to spend more time finding out about them, but when you have to resupply and you've already lost a few days in Hanover, it's hard to fit some anthropology into your day. I did, however, have dinner at the deli, and I can say with certainty that they make amazing sandwiches and the fruit salad was impressive.

Also, despite being a commune, they are very welcoming and inclusive. Here's the label on the deli bathroom doors (note that they do segregate men and women in the hostel, which is unusual):

 And this card was in my "welcome basket" on my bed:

And everything hostel-related is by donation or work-for-stay.

So whatever else you might hear about them, they are genuine in their desire to support people.

Start: mile 475
End: US 4, near Killington
Distance: 13.4 miles

Day 43 - I'm wet! I'm wet and I'm hysterical! (13/8/2016)

The sugar shack was fun, it was nice to be sheltered from the torrential rains that hit in the early evening, and Pete had a pretty cool life story but in the end I probably should have skipped it in favour of some miles. I was (once again) reminded that I don't like shared sleeping arrangements. Late revellers, a couple "caring about each other deeply", and repeated intrusions by people looking for space to set up for the night meant that I didn't get much sleep.

As usual, that meant I was cranky when I woke. A situation not improved by the discovery that both the water and electricity were knocked out by the storms, so there would be no eggs and pancakes for breakfast.

The situation was further not improved by the thunderstorms that came while I was walking. Camping wet probably has some charms, but I have trouble seeing them today. Fortunately I'm not far from Hanover where it will be time for some serious gear shopping - my t-shirt is torn in several places, and my shoes have finally given up.

On a more positive note, the terrain has gotten friendlier making bigger miles easier. Also, the maté tea that my parents sent was amazing! I can't wait to make more.

Start: NH25A (near mile 408.5)
End: Around the 425 mile mark
Distance: 16.5 miles

Day 27 - Money, Tickets, Passport (28/7/2016)

I had a late start out of Andover this morning, so I pushed for 8 mile to get ove at least one ridge before the forecasted thunderstorms hit. Most of these ridges are long sheets of bare rock that are nice and grippy - when dry. When wet they become a hard, bumpy, painful slip 'n slide.

I managed to get to Bald Pate and settle in. Met a German woman living in New Jersey named B-Hiker and had a nice chat about the trail, but decided to turn in early. In my tent I went looking for my journal notebook whence I noticed a missing zip lock bag. A zip lock bag containing:

~$50 cash

1 mobile phone and battery 

1 credit card

1 debit card

1 driver's license

1 Canadian passport

And people thought bears would be the worst thing that could happen to me on the trail.

I begged kindness from B-Hiker who was heading into Andover and promised to call in at the hostel to see if it was there. She also gave me $20 to hold me over in Gorham. With any luck one of the PELT crew saw it and have packed it in for me.

Eep.

At least I still have my whiskey, because tonight I need a drink.

Start: Andover ME

End: Bald Pate

Distance: 8.0 miles

Day 26 - Andover (7/27/2016)

Woke up this morning to find that Trout had hiked a marathon (over 26 miles) to catch up, only to arrive under dark with me already asleep. It was good to hear his voice in the morning, though. We had a short day planned into Andover, where I was planning to take a night and deal with some mail things. Legs and Timber were just coming in for food and then heading out. Trout, Eskimo and Littlefoot were all staying as well.

Surprisingly, Pancake showed up too! Her ankle has recovered enough to keep her walking. I hope to catch up to Timber and Legs in Gorham, but it'll be fun to have the PELT group around (Pancake, Eskimo, Littlefoot and Trout).


Start: Hall Mountain
End: Andover (East B Hill Road)
Distance: 5.4 Miles

Day 14 - Trail Magic (15/7/2016)

Luckily the thunderstorms passed me by last night. Just a little rain. Unluckily, I mistakenly used up too much water leaving me with only .5L (16 oz) for the walk over and down the next peak. This was going to mean some serious rationing if the heat picked up.

After tearing down my tent from the tiny plot of land I'd found for it (my fly was pegged around a tree), I set out to get to the nearest water supply around 2 miles away.

2 minutes into my journey, I found a beautiful campsite with several large tent pads and a fire pit.

Today was going to annoy me.

In fact it turned out that I'd already done most of the climbing I had to do, and I summitted about 10 minutes after leaving my camp. The long downward rock scramble I'd assumed was awaiting me, didn't appear at all. It was a bit technical, but nothing that I couldn't have handled easily the night before.

It was easy to laugh it all off though, because I knew that in a few hours I'd be in Caratunk, where there was real food and brew pub waiting for me.

I think my favourite part of the day, though, was the hiker box at the post office where some Trail Angel had left chocolate chip cookies and some bubble gum for hikers to snack on. It also held two full meal packets, which pretty much covered me for dinners until the next town. The hostel hiker box proffered homemade dehydrated chicken noodle soup, and some electrolyte pellets that another SOBO and I shared (Stephanie - no trail name yet*).

A big feed of chickenless-wings (broccoli in batter with wing sauce), a side salad, a burger with fries, and a sampling paddle of beer will keep me going for the next step tomorrow.

The plan is to hit the trail in the morning and do around 12 miles, though I'm hearing a rumour about $9 AYCE pancakes near 3 mile mark, if pancakes are worth a nero. Tough decision.

Start: minutes from the peak of Pleasant Mtn.
End: Caratunk, ME (Sterling Inn - delightful place with an extremely friendly and chatty proprietor and good resupply)
Distance: ~7 Miles (11 km)

* I wanted to call Stephanie "Arya", because "a girl has no name."  She refused the trail name.

Days 10 and 11 - strapping on the feedbag (11-12/7/2016)

I lost 5lbs. Now that we're in Monson I made up some calories:

Lunch- 28 inch pizza with sausage (ate every crumb in a single sitting)
Dinner - 9 chicken wings, fries, beer and a juicy red tomato
Breakfast - 3 eggs, bacon, home fries, 4 blueberry pancakes
Lunch - Black Bean burger, large salad
Dinner - French onion soup, side salad, 12 Oz rib eye with crumbled blue cheese, baked potato with sour cream, and an enormous brownie sundae. And beer.

After a nero and a zero, time to prep for the trail.

Poet, the owner of the hostel here, did a shakedown of my pack and helped me cut almost 10lbs of base weight. It wasn't cheap, but then my knees and hips will benefit as much a if I'd seen the physio (and for the next  2100 miles).

Start: Little Wilson Falls
End: Shaw's Hostel, Monson, ME
Distance: 7 miles (11km)