Day 111 - Waynesboro VA (20/10/2016)

I had planned to head out at 7am again this morning but clouds rolled in and made it too dark to walk without a headlamp. I was forced to sit and have a coffee while waiting for the sun to rise a bit and brighten the day. It was a nice leisurely start, but also meant that I had to do 8 miles in 2.5 hrs to meet Karen for my ride to Waynesboro. That would usually be OK, but for some reason the last few miles of Shenandoah are quite a bit more challenging than the first 100. Still, I managed to make it and am glad to avoid hiking in the hot, humid air for today.

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I had the great fortune of riding with Karen, her husband Jack, and their two beautiful Golden Retrievers. I tried to "borrow" one until December, but Karen kept a wary eye on me. Since they were generous enough to drive me to an outfitter for a gear resupply, and then to a diner for breakfast, I didn't steal their dogs (also, Karen knew to watch me like a hawk).

After a breakfast fit for a hiker (good, but more importantly, huge) I headed to my hostel, where I found Cinderella and Waterboy as expected. Less expectedly, I also found Timber and PinkyPurple!!* C and W are ahead of me now, having arrived last night, but T and PP are sticking around so I'll get to catch up with them.

All in all, a rewarding nero.

Start: just north of Calf Mountain 

End: Waynesboro VA 

Distance: 8 miles

* I'm a bit sad that Timber and Legs are now separated. They were my favourite trail "couple" and I really thought they'd hike the whole way together.

Day 110 - Hello Darkness, My Old Friend (19/10/2016)

Without a headlamp, I slept in a bit this morning but still found myself carefully breaking camp in the dark. By 7, it was bright enough to walk so I set out for a camp store to get some food supplies since I was short a breakfast. This was also my last chance for postcards from Shenandoah.

While there I had a coffee, charged my phone and had several great conversations about the Trail, including one with Karen who kindly offered me a ride into Waynesboro tomorrow morning! Off I went, planning to take up that offer.

Water has been plentiful in Shenandoah despite a low rain season, so I haven't had to worry about that. The leaves are turning (fast!) and the weather is beautiful, if a bit warm. I wasn't in a hurry since I only had to cover 28 miles in two days.

Then at lunch I noticed there were no water sources for the next 11 miles. I had about a litre, which was enough to hold me over with a bit of rationing. The greater issue is that without a headlamp, I needed to cover 11 miles, load up on water, and find a campsite with enough time to cook and set up camp before dark.

Now I was in a hurry. I managed it, in the end, but only just. I had to pitch my tent in the dark. I'm not thrilled with my bear hang, but if a bear gets my food now, he won't be very satisfied and I can replenish tomorrow.

In the end it all worked out, though I did start to fear the possibility of trying to hike and find a campsite using my phone flashlight.

Tomorrow a short 8 miles and then a hostel stay in Waynesboro. A hostel! Hopefully a proper one.

Start: Lost Mountain

End: .3 or so before Calf Mountain Shelter*

Distance: 21.8 miles

* yes, I could have pressed on to here in a pinch - and would have - but let's not forget how much I dislike communal sleeping arrangements.

Day 101 - The Dalmatian of Days (10/10/2016)

I decided on a more modest day today, in part for logistical reasons and in part because I'm still a bit tired. I ran into all of the usual suspects. I'm really beginning to like this cohort of SOBOs. Shakespeare and Flatland, and BXE are too fast for me, but I hope to get more time hiking with Cinderella and Waterboy. So far I've only ever met them while NOBOing.

By far the coolest wildlife experience I've had was today. On the trail, I noticed a large bird on a branch just 30 or 40 yards down the trail. I stopped and tried to get my phone out to take a picture. Just as I was pulling it out, the bird (I think an eagle) flew from the branch and directly at me! It passed with it's wings fully spread out, no more than a foot from my waist, and soared on into the forest and out of sight.

Papa Wallaby tells me that's a good omen. I wish good omens weren't so close to being attacked by a large bird of prey.

Also, I finished Pennsylvania. So that's 8 of 14 states down.

Just as I was ending my hike, I ran into Pancake who had twisted her ankle and was struggling. I offered to give her a ride to Walmart for a resupply, so she and Papa Wallaby met and Papa Wallaby got to play Trail Angel!

Start: Wolfville Rd, Maryland
End: Old Forge Rd, Pennsylvania
Distance: 17.6 miles

Day 88 - Trail Angel Tim, Take 2 (27/9/2016)

It rained all night, making it tough to get out of bed. I headed out to the shelter where I hoped to find Pancake and Trout, and have a quick coffee before braving the wet. They were there, and Pancake and I chilled a bit while hikers came and went. I saw Crunchy for the first time in a long time, and then on my way out I saw Beef Jerky! He'd been off trail for a wedding, and was just getting back.

While I was sitting around, I realised that I was now in the area that Tim from PA had said he could help me out if I needed it. I gave him a call and he offered to pick the three of us up, give us dinner, showers, laundry and a warm place to sleep.

Yep, that's right. Another night off trail. I could get used to this kind of hiking.

The only catch was I had to do 19 miles in about 7 hours, so off I went. Pennsylvania is pretty much as rocky as they say it is, but I was motivated by food and Tim. I was happy to get within a mile of our destination, right until I discovered that most of that mile was one of the more treacherous rock scrambles I've had to do this trip.

Still, I made it, and Tim took us out for dinner, took us to a grocery store for resupply, gave us showers, laundry, and a sampling of his various flavoured vodkas, and then packed us off to bed. All in all is was a great night of examining Tim's ax collection, chatting about travel and hiking, and generally enjoying some good company.

Start: Hahn's Lookout
End: PA 284 (Le High Gap)
Distance: 18.7 miles

Day 79 - I got the Bluegrass, so bad (18/9/2016)

This morning started with bagels for breakfast, lots of photos of us all with Tim and Kimberley, then a drive to the Bluegrass Festival. I mentioned Tim was a history buff, and today began with a historical tour of the Hudson River's history as a source of ice in the pre-refrigerator period. It was truly fascinating.

The festival was another great day. This one was a smaller‎, local community event, which proved to be far more social. In particular I met Tenley who seemed to know everyone and connected me with several others around town.

At the end of the day, instead of a rainy night on the trail, Tim had us back to the house for another night, and a plan to leave us at the trailhead in the morning.

Start: Tim's house

End: Tim's house 

Distance: 0 miles

Day 78 - Prost! (17/9/2016)

Today I woke up determined to get 20 miles in. No. Matter. What.

I was short water, but there was a visitor centre around a mile away with a spigot and (I hoped) coffee, so off I went. At the visitor centre I filled up on water, had a coffee, and caught up with Broadway, Troll, and Ser Blue. Turns out the shelter I decided not to sleep at had a beautiful view of both the harvest moonrise and the NY city skyline at night. So I was kicking myself for not staying there.

In any case, I had 19 more miles planned, so I went to head out. I car pulled up and as the driver exited, he said "are you a thru-hiker?" I shook his hand and said I was, whereupon he said "do you want to come to an Oktoberfest?"

20 miles. No. Matter. What. 

"Yes. Yes I do." I replied.

He extended the same offer to the three Floridians, and we all agreed. It turns out Tim sells solar panels, and had a tent at this festival. I spent a beautiful day chatting with some of his prospects, browsing booths, eating German food, and drinking beer.

By the end of the afternoon Tim asked if, instead of going to the trail, we'd like to come over to his place, shower, do laundry and sleep comfortably. In fact, if we wanted we could join him for a Bluegrass festival the next day. Peak Freak and Eskimo had joined us by now, and all 6 of us said yes... which meant piling all of us into his Jeep, with Broadway taking a seat in the trunk space.

It's hard to entirely capture how amazing Tim and his family are. Tim is a Renaissance man with backgrounds in acting, filmmaking, photography, guitar making, bench making/woodwork, parks management, among others I've probably forgotten or never knew about. He also has a detailed knowledge of, and love for the history of his area.

His partner Kim is a pilates instructor who used to be an actress, including appearing in Star Trek Generations with Shatner and Patrick Stewart, and in Star Trek: Voyager. My inner nerd was over the moon.

His eldest daughter (Isabella Rose) is studying singer-songwriting and has an absolutely outstanding voice. I didn't get to talk much to his youngest daughter Piper, but I can only begin to imagine what talents lie there.

So instead of 20 miles, I got 1. And that one will do.

Start: West Mountain Shelter

End: Palisades Parkway

Distance: 1.1 miles

Day 52 - Tribes by the Dozen (22/8/2016)

I think I might have forgotten to mention that I saw my first bear the other day. A young one, running away (as they usually are).

Today was a good day. I wanted to hit the library before heading out on the trail, so I found myself with 45 minutes to kill. This meant I could chat with the barista at the Yellow Deli, and find out a bit more about the community. I can't say that I learned all that much, really, except that they are quite fond of Yeshua (Jesus), and aren't all that Judaism inspired after all. He did pique my curiosity a bit though, so I'll try to visit the other Yellow Delis as I travel the trail and learn more.

I'm back to chasing miles today. I did about 13 in 6 hours, including hitting the 500 mile mark! (That would be more impressive if I wasn't supposed to be at 744.) Still, setting mileage targets and hitting them seems to be what I need right now. I'll get back to being "in the moment" when I'm more caught up.

Start: US 4
End: around the 501 mile mark
Distance: 12.6 miles

Day 49 - Zzzzzz (19/8/2016)

I'm exhausted today. Captain Stash lives on a train line near a road. Had some great magic and convos. Here's a bullet list:

• Linda and the Trail Magic House: Two blocks from Stash's is a large blue barn with an AT symbol an free breakfast.
• Evergreen: a great guy I met during a break who gave me coffee crystals since he had a resupply coming.
• Puddle: a U Waterloo alumnus!
• Honey Bear and Sunny: Two hikers slacking themselves for a bit. They had a veggie burger, onion rings and wine for me.

There was a field of cows that if I wasn't so tired, would make for a funny story. Another day perhaps.

Start: Stash and Cathy's

End: VT 12 + 1 mile

Distance: 13.8 miles

Day 48 - Green Mountain State (18/8/2016)

My package arrived yesterday, so it's back on the trail. Rather, it *arrived* on Friday, but the postal clerk finally *saw* it yesterday.

I've only seen Norwich so far, but right now the people of Vermont seem like the most generous I've met.

After 3 nights with Jennie at the Episcopal Church, I was about to leave town when I stumbled on a local cafe. The owners were abroad and had planned to close the shop, but the community rallied and were keeping it open as volunteers. The proceeds are going to charity. I had a latté (quite a good one, actually.)

When I did finally leave, I only made it 8 miles before I stumbled on a house with an AT sign and a camping symbol on it. I wandered onto the property, and meet Captain Stash. Captain did the PCT 40 years ago then accidentally bought a house on the AT. Now he and his partner Cathy let hikers camp there. Not only that, but Cathy gave me free reign in her vegetable garden. Fresh veggies on the trail! For dinner I had a cucumber and tomato salad with basil, and then stir fried some green beans, peppers, and broccoli to mix in with mashed potatoes. Delicious!

At the Norwich post office, I discovered the postal clerk had been discreetly hiding the "Charlton Heston" stamps because they don't sell well in Vermont.

This is a great state, and I've seen less than 10 miles of it.

Also managed to connect with Eskimo and Littlefoot over a drink at Starbucks. All in all, a good day.

Start: St. Barnabas Episcopal Church
End: Captain Stash and Cathy's, West Hartford
Distance: 7.2 very friendly miles

Days 45 and 46 - Hanover your gear! (15-16/8/2016)

I arrived in Hanover, went to the post office and discovered that my bounce box is missing. My bounce box holds the next map I need, most of my guide for the trail, cables and such for charging my watch and camera, clothes for town, one of my notebooks, and some other stuff that I'd really prefer to have.

So the last two days have been mostly preoccupied with food and finding my mailbox. So far, no one has any idea where the mail might be. I will say, though, that the USPS staff have been extremely generous with their time and energy. With any luck, it'll turn up soon.

Hanover, NH is easily the most hiker friendly town I've ever been too. One pizza place gives every thru-hiker a free slice of pizza, another bakery gives us a free donut or muffin. There's a community centre that will let you store your pack for the day, and offers cheap showers and laundry. There aren't many hostels, but the local college keeps a list of people who are willing to host hikers (trail angels). It's a busy time, so it took me a while to find someone with space but last night I stayed with the priest at an episcopal church just across the state line in Norwich, Vermont. This means that I've officially passed the 20% mark!

The minister also has a puppy, who woke me up this morning by a) licking my face, and b) stealing my cheese. I got up, had coffee, and joined the minister and her puppy on their morning park visit. God I love dogs.

My attempt to hold my feet together...

There's also some very good options for outfitters, so I've been able to replace my shoes, buy a new shirt, get a map to replace the one in my bounce box, and replace Pouch's rain cover!

I wasn't planning to zero here, but since I'm waiting on news about my mail I'll have to. I could do worse - there are some really nice places for food and drink here, and I haven't had time to try them all yet.

Start: um. Mile 425 or so.
End: Norwich, VT (though to be fair, I took a bus from Hanover to Norwich)
Distance: 18.3 miles

Day 33 - Hut Life (3/8/2016)

A bunch of new and interesting experiences today. Now that I'm in the Whites for real, we have access to huts run by the Appalachian Mountain Club.  Guests at these huts pay $100 or more and get dinner and breakfast and a bunk. Hikers without money to burn can benefit from the huts in a couple of ways: 1) Most huts will allow a few hikers to do work-for-stay. You do some dishes and sweep, etc, and then you can have leftovers and sleep in the dining area. 2) Most of the time huts will have a lot of breakfast leftovers (and sometimes some dinner) which they leave out for hikers. They have to pack out whatever garbage there is, so eating leftovers is a bit of a symbiotic relationship. Today, I had leftover oatmeal and lasagna for second breakfast.

Yes, second breakfast is now really a thing that I do most days.

The other new thing today was summiting the Wildcat mountain range. Like the Mahoosuc area, I'd been hearing horror stories about the Wildcats for weeks. Like the Mahoosuc range, it wasn't nearly as bad as it's made out to be - or at least it wouldn't have been if I'd followed the trail. Instead, I did a short section of descent that could fairly be described as climbing down a rock climbing wall with boots instead of climbing shoes, and a 30lb pack on my back. It is the only time so far that I have been truly afraid. When I made it safely, I high-fived Pouch for not dragging me to my death and then noticed a suspiciously safe looking path just off to my left.

Where I descended

Where I was meant to descend

The rest of the descent was uneventful.

I also met a a nice guy named John who sort of collects Thru-Hikers. If you're reading this, John: Hi!

When I got to Pinkham Notch, I hung out at the Visitor Centre for a few minutes where I met Tim, from Allentown PA. We chatted about trail life and buddhism, and he sent me on my way with his contact info if I need help in PA, and bit of whiskey to hold me over for the next few days. I also tried his homemade chili-infused vodka and we talked about theatre, buddhism, and another trail in the south of Japan. The vodka was amazing, and I keep trying to imagine what Dave or Pete would do with it for a cocktail. It made me miss people off-trail a bit.

All in all a good day. The Whites have lost some of their power, though I have yet to hit the Presidential range, which is where things are supposed to really get tough.

Start: Middle/South Carter
End: 1 mile past Pinkham Notch
Distance: 10.5 Miles

Day 24 - Trail Angels (25/7/2016)

I had an early start this morning, found a nice swimming spot, and saw a newt.

Later I came to a roadway with a beautiful lookout called Height of the Land. There were a few cars and tourists about, and while I took pictures of some tiger lilies, a couple came up and struck up a conversation. The woman asked if I'd like a Starbucks, which I reflexively said yes to (Rule #1 of long distance hiking is never turn down anything that might be calories). Then it occurred to me that we were a long way from a Starbucks.

Off she went to her car and when she returned she offered me a chilled frappucino. Then her husband pulled out a beer. And then some leftover fried chicken, and some Doritos, and some lemonade. Luckily Legs appeared saving me from bursting into tears of joy, and more beer appeared. Then Timber arrived and some Cheetos came out. Then some apple chips.

Then, just as they were leaving out came another five beers. Suffice to say we had a good long break there. And to Cynthia and Bart, if you're reading this, you are truly the most angelic of Trail Angels.

Legs, Cynthia, Timber & Bart

Start: Little Swift River Pond
End: Bemis Mountain
Distance: 12 Miles