Day 79 - I got the Bluegrass, so bad (18/9/2016)

This morning started with bagels for breakfast, lots of photos of us all with Tim and Kimberley, then a drive to the Bluegrass Festival. I mentioned Tim was a history buff, and today began with a historical tour of the Hudson River's history as a source of ice in the pre-refrigerator period. It was truly fascinating.

The festival was another great day. This one was a smaller‎, local community event, which proved to be far more social. In particular I met Tenley who seemed to know everyone and connected me with several others around town.

At the end of the day, instead of a rainy night on the trail, Tim had us back to the house for another night, and a plan to leave us at the trailhead in the morning.

Start: Tim's house

End: Tim's house 

Distance: 0 miles

Day 78 - Prost! (17/9/2016)

Today I woke up determined to get 20 miles in. No. Matter. What.

I was short water, but there was a visitor centre around a mile away with a spigot and (I hoped) coffee, so off I went. At the visitor centre I filled up on water, had a coffee, and caught up with Broadway, Troll, and Ser Blue. Turns out the shelter I decided not to sleep at had a beautiful view of both the harvest moonrise and the NY city skyline at night. So I was kicking myself for not staying there.

In any case, I had 19 more miles planned, so I went to head out. I car pulled up and as the driver exited, he said "are you a thru-hiker?" I shook his hand and said I was, whereupon he said "do you want to come to an Oktoberfest?"

20 miles. No. Matter. What. 

"Yes. Yes I do." I replied.

He extended the same offer to the three Floridians, and we all agreed. It turns out Tim sells solar panels, and had a tent at this festival. I spent a beautiful day chatting with some of his prospects, browsing booths, eating German food, and drinking beer.

By the end of the afternoon Tim asked if, instead of going to the trail, we'd like to come over to his place, shower, do laundry and sleep comfortably. In fact, if we wanted we could join him for a Bluegrass festival the next day. Peak Freak and Eskimo had joined us by now, and all 6 of us said yes... which meant piling all of us into his Jeep, with Broadway taking a seat in the trunk space.

It's hard to entirely capture how amazing Tim and his family are. Tim is a Renaissance man with backgrounds in acting, filmmaking, photography, guitar making, bench making/woodwork, parks management, among others I've probably forgotten or never knew about. He also has a detailed knowledge of, and love for the history of his area.

His partner Kim is a pilates instructor who used to be an actress, including appearing in Star Trek Generations with Shatner and Patrick Stewart, and in Star Trek: Voyager. My inner nerd was over the moon.

His eldest daughter (Isabella Rose) is studying singer-songwriting and has an absolutely outstanding voice. I didn't get to talk much to his youngest daughter Piper, but I can only begin to imagine what talents lie there.

So instead of 20 miles, I got 1. And that one will do.

Start: West Mountain Shelter

End: Palisades Parkway

Distance: 1.1 miles

Day 74 - Mail woes (13/9/2016)

Today I was hoping to pop into Stormville and pick up my missed mail drop.

Today I popped into Stormville for nothing.

I'm sleeping behind a deli with Eskimo, Broadway, Troll and Ser Blue hoping the package will arrive tomorrow.

Start: Nuclear Lake
End: Stormville, NY
Distance: 8.3 Miles

Day 72 - Kent (11/9/2016)

This morning started with a thunderstorm and a short walk into Kent, CT. I ended up there for a long time, so it's now late. Here are the bullet points:

• Walked two miles into Kent, the richest town I've ever seen. I walked past Kent School whose tuition is probably more than I've ever earned in a year.
• Rich kids are everywhere.
• I bought new socks and a pair of Crocs!
• I found Eskimo!!!! He's back on trail after a short, giardia-induced break
• There were some beautiful views of sunsets.
• I camped on a beach after a few hours of night hiking!

Start: Skiff Mtn Rd.

End: Ten Mile River

Distance: 11.5 miles

Day 62 - I Need A Vacation (1/9/2016)

Today marked the end of my first two months. I woke up early because I'd promised the caretaker I would go get water from the spring. This sounds generous, but really it was just because I'd get to take the canoe out again. Littlefoot and I set out and brought back 24 gallons. God I love canoeing.

I also planned to leave early. I'd heard the rec centre in Great Barrington allowed us to camp for free, so my plan was to race 19 miles into GB. So my plan was water, wolf down some pancakes, and hit the trail by 7:40.

Over pancakes, I chatted with Littlefoot and Bambi (the Caretaker). The conversation was so good I left at 9:30 (after another short chat with Jellybean and Pooh Bear who were having a late morning). 

I half expected I wouldn't make it to Great Barrington, but a lunch at the 8 mile mark with Sphinx and Freefall git me pumped again and I managed to press through.

I've now hit the 30% mark after doing 117 miles in 7 days. My legs and feet are ready for some concrete jungle, so I'm looking forward to Rebecca, Dave, and Colin's arrival Saturday. For tomorrow I need to deal with mail, laundry, and a few gear issues. I'm also loving into a motel for the night. Pro Tip: don't go to a resort town on the last weekend of the summer if saving money is your goal.

At least tonight the camping is free (even if the beer* wasn't).

Start: Upper Goose Pond Cabin

End: Great Barrington

Distance: 19.1 miles

* Barrington Brewery's ESB may be the best beer in its class that I've ever had

Day 61 - Rest Day At The Goose (31/8/2016)

This was a nice easy day, though I still struggled for the last few miles. You know you're tired when 11 miles feels as tough as 18. (Then again, you know you're fitter when 11 miles used to be a big day, and now it's a rest day.)

Upper Goose Pond is every bit as amazing as I was told it would be. The caretaker has a big white wolfhound named Falcor (to go with a small brown mutt named Bella). After pitching my tent, I took a canoe to an island in the pond for lunch. There I had a cup of tea, some lunch, and listened to music on my phone. Truly serene. When I got back, I found out that Uncle Mickey had bought hot dogs and hamburgers for everyone, so I immediately had dinner. Then I went up to my tent to make real dinner (yep, three consecutive meals in a few hours), and met Jellybean and Pooh Bear. They're both former army, and were on their first recreational backpacking trip - and discovering that trail walking with big packs is harder than they'd expected.

We had a great chat, and I gave them lots of reassurance that, indeed, trail walking with big packs is hard. Then we chatted about army life, and Germany (Pooh Bear had been an army brat there as well). They left me with a really delicious hit sauce (Puerto Ricans don't mess around with that).

Canoes, dogs, grilled burgers, and good conversations. It's really hard to explain how much I needed them that day.

Also, at the end of the day, Littlefoot showed up! I feared we'd lost him to the 12 Tribes, so I'm glad he's remained in society (sort of). I also found out that Eskimo, who'd gone to hospital with suspected giardia, was back on trail (and also not a member of the 12 Tribes). Good news abounds!

Start: Cookie Lady's

End: Upper Goose Pond Cabin

Distance: 11.1 miles

Day 52 - Tribes by the Dozen (22/8/2016)

I think I might have forgotten to mention that I saw my first bear the other day. A young one, running away (as they usually are).

Today was a good day. I wanted to hit the library before heading out on the trail, so I found myself with 45 minutes to kill. This meant I could chat with the barista at the Yellow Deli, and find out a bit more about the community. I can't say that I learned all that much, really, except that they are quite fond of Yeshua (Jesus), and aren't all that Judaism inspired after all. He did pique my curiosity a bit though, so I'll try to visit the other Yellow Delis as I travel the trail and learn more.

I'm back to chasing miles today. I did about 13 in 6 hours, including hitting the 500 mile mark! (That would be more impressive if I wasn't supposed to be at 744.) Still, setting mileage targets and hitting them seems to be what I need right now. I'll get back to being "in the moment" when I'm more caught up.

Start: US 4
End: around the 501 mile mark
Distance: 12.6 miles

Day 51 - The Red Carpet State (21/8/2016)

This morning I woke up determined to cover the 12 miles to Rutland in a reasonable amount of time. I set out with the goal of keeping 2 miles/hr including any rest time. It turns out that Vermont made this easy. Vermont is essentially a long, soft, red carpet.

The Red Carpet State

My only real delay was for some trail magic (hamburgers)!

Tonight I'm staying at the Yellow Deli & Hiker Hostel. Yellow Delis are run by the 12 Tribes, which is a religious community (read commune/cult). I'd hoped to spend more time finding out about them, but when you have to resupply and you've already lost a few days in Hanover, it's hard to fit some anthropology into your day. I did, however, have dinner at the deli, and I can say with certainty that they make amazing sandwiches and the fruit salad was impressive.

Also, despite being a commune, they are very welcoming and inclusive. Here's the label on the deli bathroom doors (note that they do segregate men and women in the hostel, which is unusual):

 And this card was in my "welcome basket" on my bed:

And everything hostel-related is by donation or work-for-stay.

So whatever else you might hear about them, they are genuine in their desire to support people.

Start: mile 475
End: US 4, near Killington
Distance: 13.4 miles

Day 48 - Green Mountain State (18/8/2016)

My package arrived yesterday, so it's back on the trail. Rather, it *arrived* on Friday, but the postal clerk finally *saw* it yesterday.

I've only seen Norwich so far, but right now the people of Vermont seem like the most generous I've met.

After 3 nights with Jennie at the Episcopal Church, I was about to leave town when I stumbled on a local cafe. The owners were abroad and had planned to close the shop, but the community rallied and were keeping it open as volunteers. The proceeds are going to charity. I had a latté (quite a good one, actually.)

When I did finally leave, I only made it 8 miles before I stumbled on a house with an AT sign and a camping symbol on it. I wandered onto the property, and meet Captain Stash. Captain did the PCT 40 years ago then accidentally bought a house on the AT. Now he and his partner Cathy let hikers camp there. Not only that, but Cathy gave me free reign in her vegetable garden. Fresh veggies on the trail! For dinner I had a cucumber and tomato salad with basil, and then stir fried some green beans, peppers, and broccoli to mix in with mashed potatoes. Delicious!

At the Norwich post office, I discovered the postal clerk had been discreetly hiding the "Charlton Heston" stamps because they don't sell well in Vermont.

This is a great state, and I've seen less than 10 miles of it.

Also managed to connect with Eskimo and Littlefoot over a drink at Starbucks. All in all, a good day.

Start: St. Barnabas Episcopal Church
End: Captain Stash and Cathy's, West Hartford
Distance: 7.2 very friendly miles

Day 32 - Trail Wizardry (2/8/2016)

After a rest day in Gorham, it's time to hit the White Mountains. I don't know what to expect at all. NOBOs almost look shell-shocked when they talk about it, but all agree the views are spectacular. So far, though, I've found everything to be exaggerated: Nothing is as hard as people say, or as easy.

The toughest thing is the sleeping arrangements. There are many, many rules about camping in New Hampshire, and all official sites involve paying (and are often very crowded). There are huts, where one can do "work-for-stay." I guess I'll just have to figure it all out as I go along. Tonight I'm bedded down in the Wildcat range between two peaks.

The thing that worries me most is hitting the NOBO "Bubble" (a very large group - hundreds - of NOBOs all travelling within a few days of each other). It seems likely I'll hit them in the Whites, so I may take some time off in Lincoln, NH to see if I can let some of the crowd pass me by. The bubble also has a bit of a party reputation, which is not really what I'm after on this trek.

On the plus side, the day started with so much trail magic I'm beginning to think I'm a wizard: free breakfast from a guy who picked me up hitchhiking, pop/soda at the trail head, followed by beer and soda about a half-mile in.

Trail Magic

I also ran into Timber, Legs, Trout, Littlefoot, Eskimo and Papa Eskimo (E's parents are in town to celebrate his 18th birthday). All of them were slack packing the Wildcat range in reverse so I got lots of advice about what was to come. None of it consistent. As usual, I have no idea what's coming.

Day 27 - Money, Tickets, Passport (28/7/2016)

I had a late start out of Andover this morning, so I pushed for 8 mile to get ove at least one ridge before the forecasted thunderstorms hit. Most of these ridges are long sheets of bare rock that are nice and grippy - when dry. When wet they become a hard, bumpy, painful slip 'n slide.

I managed to get to Bald Pate and settle in. Met a German woman living in New Jersey named B-Hiker and had a nice chat about the trail, but decided to turn in early. In my tent I went looking for my journal notebook whence I noticed a missing zip lock bag. A zip lock bag containing:

~$50 cash

1 mobile phone and battery 

1 credit card

1 debit card

1 driver's license

1 Canadian passport

And people thought bears would be the worst thing that could happen to me on the trail.

I begged kindness from B-Hiker who was heading into Andover and promised to call in at the hostel to see if it was there. She also gave me $20 to hold me over in Gorham. With any luck one of the PELT crew saw it and have packed it in for me.

Eep.

At least I still have my whiskey, because tonight I need a drink.

Start: Andover ME

End: Bald Pate

Distance: 8.0 miles

Day 26 - Andover (7/27/2016)

Woke up this morning to find that Trout had hiked a marathon (over 26 miles) to catch up, only to arrive under dark with me already asleep. It was good to hear his voice in the morning, though. We had a short day planned into Andover, where I was planning to take a night and deal with some mail things. Legs and Timber were just coming in for food and then heading out. Trout, Eskimo and Littlefoot were all staying as well.

Surprisingly, Pancake showed up too! Her ankle has recovered enough to keep her walking. I hope to catch up to Timber and Legs in Gorham, but it'll be fun to have the PELT group around (Pancake, Eskimo, Littlefoot and Trout).


Start: Hall Mountain
End: Andover (East B Hill Road)
Distance: 5.4 Miles

Day 21 - Moose of Old Age (22/7/2016)

Three weeks on the trail now. I woke up to a light rainfall, but I just waited it out in my cozy sleeping bag. Lots of "Happy Birthdays" as I emerged, and Timber (whom I'd met with his dad on Day 1) gave me a cherry pie. Legs and I shared an early morning shot of whiskey (Canadian Club), since they were heading on further than the party. I hope to catch them again some time.

It was a good day of hiking, and I got to see my 3rd moose. A buck this time who was in the trail as I turned a corner. Trout's beginning to resent my luck, and Pancake thinks I'm a moose diviner.

Camp brownies (omg so good), and scotch with new found friends. I miss my off trail buddies, but this is definitely a memorable birthday.

The brownies are burned into my pan a bit, which means everything will taste like that now.

Totally Worth It.

A great day.

Start: Spalding Mtn
End: Poplar Ridge
Distance: 8 miles (12 8 km)

Day 20 - 39 for one more day (21/7/2016)

After a pretty uneventful day and evening in Stratton, we headed out late today fully re-supplied. The challenge was to cover 25miles in the next couple of days to catch up to Trout and Eskimo to celebrate my 40th.

We're fully stocked for a party - Pancake bought brownie mix and a bottle of 12 year old Glenlivet (she wouldn't let me buy them). She's packing the whiskey, I'm packing the brownie. Probably because she knows better than to trust me with fine scotch.

I got to camp to find Trout and Eskimo there. Pancake's ankle has been injured so she's trailing behind a bit. She doesn't expect to make it to the first campsite, but she'll make up the distance in the morning. To make sure she's there, we decided to move the party 4 miles earlier. By nightfall we gave up on seeing her, and just hoped her ankle was ok.

Then she showed up! No headlamp, under cover of dark, she hobbled into camp just as most of us were about to crawl into bed.

Today was a good day of hiking. I got to know Littlefoot a bit better. He's a smart, positive and adventurous teen. I think he'll do some amazing things. I hope to walk with him a lot. Also spent a bit of time with Legs, who is another academic struggling with the uncertainty of Postdoctoral life. All in all a great day, though my hip is acting up again.

Start: Stratton
End: Spalding Mountain
Distance: 12.5 Miles (20 km)

Day 18 - Avery Peak (19/7/2016)

I forgot Pouch's rain cover at the shelter this morning! Fortunately at our next campsite I met a nice pair of NOBOs who offered to retrieve it and mail it to me further down the track.

Rangely and Snakecharmer are an odd couple: she's around 70, he's the 15 year old son of her friend's. They've hiked together regularly for several years now. Rangely declared us (Pancake, Eskimo, Littlefoot and me) her favourite SOBOs and told me to email her when I get near Virginia so that she can make sure there's some trail magic there. :)

The climb to Avery Peak went really well, but it was the most windy thing I've done in a long time. The views were spectacular, and none of my injuries flared up so I'm very happy.

Start: Little Bigelow
End: Horns Pond
Distance: 9.9 miles (16 km)

Day 9 - Winged Flight (10/7/2016)

Got up this morning to a day of rain walking... again. Joey (ex military guy now known as Slip 'n Slide) and Trout caught me after about 5 miles and and they were planning to do the full 20 miles into Monson. I didn't think I could handle that, but just before we all set off Slip 'n Slide offered me a caffeine pill.

Holy F---.

It was like someone gave me wings. All the pain in my legs and feet disappeared, and I drove forward like the roots and rocks were there to help not hinder the walking.

I held with them until the hills and descents got the better of Trout and we had to stop. We were well-short of the 20 miles when we stumbled on Cole (young native guy who accidentally ended up with the very un-PC trail name Eskimo) camped down for the night at Little Wilson Falls. We camped down as well and had a nice evening to warm us up for a chill 7 miles in the sun to Monson in the morning. No rain means I'll take it easier and get there when I get there.

Start: Cloud Pond
End: Little Wilson Falls
Distance: 13.7 miles (22 km)

My right hip is getting worse, so I might look into a physio in Monson/Greenville.