Day 29 - out of the frying pan (30/7/2016)

This morning started with the discovery that the soft Platypus 1L container I'd been using to store my birthday whisky had sprung a leak. This left me with two choices: dump the whiskey, or... the thing I did instead.

As it turns out, being (mildly) drunk for most of a hard day makes it tough to cover 14+ miles. Still enjoyed the views though and... got through Maine! One state down, Thirteen to go.

At camp I met Bearfoot, a neurosurgeon who got his name when a small bear poked at his foot while he was sleeping, and his brother Klaus. I may see them again in a few days when they go do a section of the white mountains that they had to skip for weather. ‎

Start: Mahoosuc Notch South (Maine!)

End: Gentian Pond (New Hampshire!)

Distance 11.2 miles (not 15 miles)‎

Day 28 - Mahoosuc, you say? (29/7/2016)

It occurred to me this morning that Grafton Notch was only 2 miles away where I could probably get back to Andover and see about my documents. I reassembled my pack (which had exploded all over my tent in the frantic search) and then I felt it. In the bottom of my pack. My phone. And everything else. Hurrah!!!

B-Hiker was almost as happy as I was.

For weeks now I'd been hearing from NOBOs that the Mahoosuc area was tough. Especially the Mahoosuc Arm (a long steep section of bare rock) and the Mahoosuc Notch (a long, difficult rock scramble). Today I did them.

The Arm would have been deadly if I'd been climbing it, but on a dry day it was just a slow descent. It's not often I prefer going down to up, but this time I was glad to be a SOBO.

The Notch was just plain fun. Narrow passages. Caves, boulder climbs and scrambles! My rock climbing days were useful. This turned out to be a hard and short, but fun day.

Start:Bald Pate

End: South Mahoosuc Notch

Distance: 10.4 miles

Day 27 - Money, Tickets, Passport (28/7/2016)

I had a late start out of Andover this morning, so I pushed for 8 mile to get ove at least one ridge before the forecasted thunderstorms hit. Most of these ridges are long sheets of bare rock that are nice and grippy - when dry. When wet they become a hard, bumpy, painful slip 'n slide.

I managed to get to Bald Pate and settle in. Met a German woman living in New Jersey named B-Hiker and had a nice chat about the trail, but decided to turn in early. In my tent I went looking for my journal notebook whence I noticed a missing zip lock bag. A zip lock bag containing:

~$50 cash

1 mobile phone and battery 

1 credit card

1 debit card

1 driver's license

1 Canadian passport

And people thought bears would be the worst thing that could happen to me on the trail.

I begged kindness from B-Hiker who was heading into Andover and promised to call in at the hostel to see if it was there. She also gave me $20 to hold me over in Gorham. With any luck one of the PELT crew saw it and have packed it in for me.

Eep.

At least I still have my whiskey, because tonight I need a drink.

Start: Andover ME

End: Bald Pate

Distance: 8.0 miles

Day 26 - Andover (7/27/2016)

Woke up this morning to find that Trout had hiked a marathon (over 26 miles) to catch up, only to arrive under dark with me already asleep. It was good to hear his voice in the morning, though. We had a short day planned into Andover, where I was planning to take a night and deal with some mail things. Legs and Timber were just coming in for food and then heading out. Trout, Eskimo and Littlefoot were all staying as well.

Surprisingly, Pancake showed up too! Her ankle has recovered enough to keep her walking. I hope to catch up to Timber and Legs in Gorham, but it'll be fun to have the PELT group around (Pancake, Eskimo, Littlefoot and Trout).


Start: Hall Mountain
End: Andover (East B Hill Road)
Distance: 5.4 Miles

Day 25 - Reflection (26/7/2016)

Today was uneventful - we climbed a bit, descended a bit. I have some blisters under and between my toes, which is really the first time I've had foot issues. I think it's time for a quieter day.

There no available tent sites last night, so we crammed a shelter full. It's not easy to sleep with eight full grown men on camp mattresses, shifting around, snoring, dreaming, reading, etc... I woke up unrested, my clothes still wet from a rainfall, and under cloud cover promising another wet day. When I set out my mood was a bit low. For the first time I genuinely thought that I probably wouldn't finish the trail (not that I meant to leave any time soon, just that I was unlikely to enjoy this for four more months).

Things brightened a bit when Legs and Timber caught up. I still don't have a "Georgia or Bust" attitude, but the people out here have a way of making you want to stay on the trail.

I guess time will tell.

Start: Bemis Mountain
End: Hall Mountain
Distance: 12.8 Miles

Day 24 - Trail Angels (25/7/2016)

I had an early start this morning, found a nice swimming spot, and saw a newt.

Later I came to a roadway with a beautiful lookout called Height of the Land. There were a few cars and tourists about, and while I took pictures of some tiger lilies, a couple came up and struck up a conversation. The woman asked if I'd like a Starbucks, which I reflexively said yes to (Rule #1 of long distance hiking is never turn down anything that might be calories). Then it occurred to me that we were a long way from a Starbucks.

Off she went to her car and when she returned she offered me a chilled frappucino. Then her husband pulled out a beer. And then some leftover fried chicken, and some Doritos, and some lemonade. Luckily Legs appeared saving me from bursting into tears of joy, and more beer appeared. Then Timber arrived and some Cheetos came out. Then some apple chips.

Then, just as they were leaving out came another five beers. Suffice to say we had a good long break there. And to Cynthia and Bart, if you're reading this, you are truly the most angelic of Trail Angels.

Legs, Cynthia, Timber & Bart

Start: Little Swift River Pond
End: Bemis Mountain
Distance: 12 Miles

Day 23 - No Worries (24/7/2016)

A lazy morning was followed by a short hike to the road into Rangeley. I managed to hitch a ride almost immediately with a navy vet whose son had done the trail in 2001.

My goal today was just a quick resupply and some real food before hitting the trail again. One of the grocery staff told me about a cafe with good coffee and reliable wifi. I ordered a latte and a chocolate croissant, but before I could sit down, a friendly bearded fellow started up a chat. I turns out he was doing the trail too, but following yellow blazes on his BMW bike (yellow blazes are trail speak for road lines). We had a great conversation about nomadic life and lucky meetings, traded details, and then I went off to deal with blog and other digital needs.

As he was leaving he popped over and left me a pin with two worry dolls on it.

That was only the first cool thing to happen today.

[I just had to interrupt this because while writing it I just heard three very large, loud splashes in the pond I'm camped next to. I couldn't see anything, but I'd guess it was either a large animal (moose?) splashing into the pond, or a beaver felling trees. I'll take a closer look tomorrow if I can... Which is a nice segue into the second cool thing.]

When I got to my site this afternoon I found a canoe with a paddle and some PFDs! I finally got to be on the water again. I dropped my pack and took the least rickety looking canoe and spent 20 mins just wandering around (after relearning how to use a paddle).

I thought I'd have the site to myself, but then Legs and Timber showed up so they had a paddle, and we had dinner together.

Start: Piazza Rock
End: Little Swift River Pond
Distance: 6.6 miles + a detour into Rangeley

Upcoming Mail Drops

I now have several packages chasing me down the trail since it turns out that anything from Canada or abroad takes 8-14 business days to get to me. I'll try to start posting addresses further down the trail from now on.

My next locations will be:

Serje Robidoux (trail name Wallaby)
c/o Hiker's Welcome Hostel
P.O. Box 25
Glencliff, NH 03238
ETA: 12/8/2016

Serje Robidoux (Hold for Hiker)
c/o General Delivery
50 S Main St,
Hanover, NH 03755
ETA: 15/8/2016

Serje Robidoux (Hold for Hiker)
c/o General Delivery
2046 Route 4
Killington, VT 05751
ETA: 18/8/2016

As always, if you send something please let me know by email (and include a tracking number if you have one). That way I can bounce things forward if I outrun them. From Canada, XpressPost seems to be very fast (but I assume expensive).

Day 22 - The Thing Family (23/7/2016)

I parted ways with Pancake for the time being this morning. Her ankle is going to slow her down for a while, but hopefully it heals quickly and we meet again down the trail.

I kept finding blueberries and beautiful views over the ridges today. I kept 1/2 a cup for breakfast. :)

At camp, I met the Thing Family. This is me under Piazza Rock with Things 1 & 2, who were on their very first overnight hike. We had a great time climbing rocks and exploring caves before sharing gummy bears and marshmallows at camp. A great 40+a day.

Thanks to veggieguy (who sounds like Alan Alda!) for this photo.

Start: Poplar Ridge
End: Piazza Rock
Distance: 8.3 miles (13.5 km)

Day 21 - Moose of Old Age (22/7/2016)

Three weeks on the trail now. I woke up to a light rainfall, but I just waited it out in my cozy sleeping bag. Lots of "Happy Birthdays" as I emerged, and Timber (whom I'd met with his dad on Day 1) gave me a cherry pie. Legs and I shared an early morning shot of whiskey (Canadian Club), since they were heading on further than the party. I hope to catch them again some time.

It was a good day of hiking, and I got to see my 3rd moose. A buck this time who was in the trail as I turned a corner. Trout's beginning to resent my luck, and Pancake thinks I'm a moose diviner.

Camp brownies (omg so good), and scotch with new found friends. I miss my off trail buddies, but this is definitely a memorable birthday.

The brownies are burned into my pan a bit, which means everything will taste like that now.

Totally Worth It.

A great day.

Start: Spalding Mtn
End: Poplar Ridge
Distance: 8 miles (12 8 km)

Day 20 - 39 for one more day (21/7/2016)

After a pretty uneventful day and evening in Stratton, we headed out late today fully re-supplied. The challenge was to cover 25miles in the next couple of days to catch up to Trout and Eskimo to celebrate my 40th.

We're fully stocked for a party - Pancake bought brownie mix and a bottle of 12 year old Glenlivet (she wouldn't let me buy them). She's packing the whiskey, I'm packing the brownie. Probably because she knows better than to trust me with fine scotch.

I got to camp to find Trout and Eskimo there. Pancake's ankle has been injured so she's trailing behind a bit. She doesn't expect to make it to the first campsite, but she'll make up the distance in the morning. To make sure she's there, we decided to move the party 4 miles earlier. By nightfall we gave up on seeing her, and just hoped her ankle was ok.

Then she showed up! No headlamp, under cover of dark, she hobbled into camp just as most of us were about to crawl into bed.

Today was a good day of hiking. I got to know Littlefoot a bit better. He's a smart, positive and adventurous teen. I think he'll do some amazing things. I hope to walk with him a lot. Also spent a bit of time with Legs, who is another academic struggling with the uncertainty of Postdoctoral life. All in all a great day, though my hip is acting up again.

Start: Stratton
End: Spalding Mountain
Distance: 12.5 Miles (20 km)

Day 18 - Avery Peak (19/7/2016)

I forgot Pouch's rain cover at the shelter this morning! Fortunately at our next campsite I met a nice pair of NOBOs who offered to retrieve it and mail it to me further down the track.

Rangely and Snakecharmer are an odd couple: she's around 70, he's the 15 year old son of her friend's. They've hiked together regularly for several years now. Rangely declared us (Pancake, Eskimo, Littlefoot and me) her favourite SOBOs and told me to email her when I get near Virginia so that she can make sure there's some trail magic there. :)

The climb to Avery Peak went really well, but it was the most windy thing I've done in a long time. The views were spectacular, and none of my injuries flared up so I'm very happy.

Start: Little Bigelow
End: Horns Pond
Distance: 9.9 miles (16 km)

Day 17 - the monotony of trail life (18/7/2016)

Today was pretty quiet. Light walking, a little bit of swimming.

Tomorrow we do our first real peak, according to NOBOs.

Start: West Carry Pond
End: Little Bigelow
Distance: 7.7 miles (12.4 km)