Day 111 - Waynesboro VA (20/10/2016)

I had planned to head out at 7am again this morning but clouds rolled in and made it too dark to walk without a headlamp. I was forced to sit and have a coffee while waiting for the sun to rise a bit and brighten the day. It was a nice leisurely start, but also meant that I had to do 8 miles in 2.5 hrs to meet Karen for my ride to Waynesboro. That would usually be OK, but for some reason the last few miles of Shenandoah are quite a bit more challenging than the first 100. Still, I managed to make it and am glad to avoid hiking in the hot, humid air for today.

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I had the great fortune of riding with Karen, her husband Jack, and their two beautiful Golden Retrievers. I tried to "borrow" one until December, but Karen kept a wary eye on me. Since they were generous enough to drive me to an outfitter for a gear resupply, and then to a diner for breakfast, I didn't steal their dogs (also, Karen knew to watch me like a hawk).

After a breakfast fit for a hiker (good, but more importantly, huge) I headed to my hostel, where I found Cinderella and Waterboy as expected. Less expectedly, I also found Timber and PinkyPurple!!* C and W are ahead of me now, having arrived last night, but T and PP are sticking around so I'll get to catch up with them.

All in all, a rewarding nero.

Start: just north of Calf Mountain 

End: Waynesboro VA 

Distance: 8 miles

* I'm a bit sad that Timber and Legs are now separated. They were my favourite trail "couple" and I really thought they'd hike the whole way together.

Day 81 - The Struggle Continues (20/9/2016)

Today became a nero when Pancake offered to pick me up and give me a bed, a shower, and some laundry at her place. She lives in New Jersey and had been visiting with friends for a few days and slackpacking Timber, Legs, Pinky Purple and Foggy. That's right, after just one day on the trail, I got off again.

To kill time waiting for Pancake, I went to the library at Greenwood Lake and updated some blog entries. I also popped into a café (Village Buzz Café) that, was owned by Tortuga, a former thru-hiker! We had some chat, I ate (a lot) of food, and she let me hang out while she closed up. Then she only charged me for a sandwich.

Then I tried to find a place to have a beer. I went into one pub that looked promising. As soon as the bartender saw my pack, he immediately barked that I couldn't have it inside. Which was fine, we rarely bring our packs inside, I had just intended to ask if I could leave it on the patio or if there was somewhere else he preferred. The beer selection was Crappy Beer, Crappy Beer, Crappy Light Beer, or Craft Beer. I asked what the Craft Beer was like and he looked at me like I was an irritant and said "it's beer." I just ordered one because, being Canadian, I figured he had to warm up to me eventually.

Then I saw it. Hanging behind the bar, unobtrusively until you noticed it. A hat. Make America Great Again.

Then I heard it. A lot of casual racism from the two or three other patrons (all the talk was politics).

I finished my beer and left, heading to the second pub in town. Before I got there, though, I saw the Trump sign on the lawn.

So for all my Canadian and Australian (and other) friends who've been wondering who on earth is supporting this guy, I can confirm your suspicions: middle-aged, white racists in small towns.

I just went back to the library and read some Terry Pratchett short stories.

It was also good to hang out with Pancake. We tasted some bourbons and gins, and I had some spaghetti. Pancake agreed to drive me to my mail package in the morning, and then drop me at the trail.

With any luck my motivation will pick up again.

Start: Around the 813 mile mark

End: NY 17A

Distance: 4 miles

Day 59 - A Visit from Legs (29/8/2016)

Another day that started low but ended high.

It poured last night, so I had to pack up my wet tent this morning, load up Pouch with far too much food, and trudge out of my lair slowly. I struggled through, eventually finding myself at the summit of Mount Grey lock, which had the nicest views I've seen since the Whites.

With a Powerade in hand, followed by coffee,

I'd just checked Facebook to find someone chatty, 

when out on the terrace there arose such a clatter. 

I sprang from my bench to see what was the matter. 

Away to the window I flew like a flash, 

when what to my wondering eyes should appear, 

but Legs! And Foggy! (sadly, no reindeer) *

I hadn't seen Foggy since the 100 mile wilderness, and thought Legs and friends were well ahead of me. Timber and Pinky Purple followed. The meeting of friends once again rejuvenated me, and I managed the next 7 miles at a better than 3 mph pace.

Now I'm bunked down in the Parish Hall of a Catholic Church in Cheshire.

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Start: My secret lair

End: St Mary's, Cheshire‎

Distance: 15.6 miles‎

* To the descendants of Clement Clark Moore: I'm sorry.

Days 38 & 39 - (8-9/8/2016)

Two interesting days. First, my plan had been to pop into Lincoln, do a quick resupply/laundry/library blog update, get some food, and move on. That plan died almost as soon as I arrived. I loved this little town. A woman with her baby in the passenger seat of her pickup let me ride in the box and took me to North Woodstock where  I had a wamlette for breakfast (an omelette served on top of a waffle). Then I headed to the Lincoln library where I spent 2 hrs on the computer updating the blog and uploading photos. [Can I just throw a quick shout out to Public Libraries everywhere? Support yours.]

Then I met Brendan. Brendan is a heavy drinking, middle-aged businessman who struck up a conversation with me at a brewpub that, strangely, did not serve any of its own beers. It turns out that Brendan was a high-flying "Wolf of Wall Street" type real-estate mogul who was adapting to small town life and missing his power-brokering, deal-making days. He drew a stark contrast to the way that I live my life, and while he seemed on the one hand jealous of me, I couldn't help but think that he'd probably hate living the way I do. He liked his Porsche, million dollar mansion [large enough to drunkenly land a helicopter in the yard, if needed, which he had at one point], and expensive watch. As much as I'd like some of those things too, I'm not sure the lifestyle would suit me anymore than my lifestyle would have suited Brendan. It's good to meet peopl who live differently sometimes to help you see why you make the choices you do.

That night, I decided I'd had enough of hostels for now so I splurged on a "cheap" motel (it's peak season in Lincoln, so cheap was relative). Did I mention I liked this place? Even the next day, it took me almost 6 hours to finally leave town.

Which, it turns out was lucky!

While walking along the trail, thinking about the usual (food, where would I sleep, food, etc...) I came upon a speedy trail walker/runner who, from a distance, seemed familiar somehow. When he got closer, I recognized Jesse, an old friend from undergrad whom I hadn't seen more than once or twice in the 15 years since those days! He did a double take, we hugged, and then sat down had a good long chat. Jesse [Slacker] is a longtime ultra marathon and trail runner and just happened to be taking a summer break to visit and run some of the White Mountains. It was amazing to run into someone so randomly, here in the wilds of New Hampshire.

Me and Slacker

Shortly after, Timber and Legs showed up (they'd met Slacker the night before at a hostel). After days of no familiar faces, I was now surrounded by on and off trail friends again. All of this was made possible by my failing to leave Lincoln on time, twice.

So to Brendan: Thanks both for the beer, and making it too hard to leave Lincoln. Keep hiking.

Start: Liberty Spring
End: Between North and South Kinsman Peaks
Distance: 8.4 miles

Day 32 - Trail Wizardry (2/8/2016)

After a rest day in Gorham, it's time to hit the White Mountains. I don't know what to expect at all. NOBOs almost look shell-shocked when they talk about it, but all agree the views are spectacular. So far, though, I've found everything to be exaggerated: Nothing is as hard as people say, or as easy.

The toughest thing is the sleeping arrangements. There are many, many rules about camping in New Hampshire, and all official sites involve paying (and are often very crowded). There are huts, where one can do "work-for-stay." I guess I'll just have to figure it all out as I go along. Tonight I'm bedded down in the Wildcat range between two peaks.

The thing that worries me most is hitting the NOBO "Bubble" (a very large group - hundreds - of NOBOs all travelling within a few days of each other). It seems likely I'll hit them in the Whites, so I may take some time off in Lincoln, NH to see if I can let some of the crowd pass me by. The bubble also has a bit of a party reputation, which is not really what I'm after on this trek.

On the plus side, the day started with so much trail magic I'm beginning to think I'm a wizard: free breakfast from a guy who picked me up hitchhiking, pop/soda at the trail head, followed by beer and soda about a half-mile in.

Trail Magic

I also ran into Timber, Legs, Trout, Littlefoot, Eskimo and Papa Eskimo (E's parents are in town to celebrate his 18th birthday). All of them were slack packing the Wildcat range in reverse so I got lots of advice about what was to come. None of it consistent. As usual, I have no idea what's coming.

Day 26 - Andover (7/27/2016)

Woke up this morning to find that Trout had hiked a marathon (over 26 miles) to catch up, only to arrive under dark with me already asleep. It was good to hear his voice in the morning, though. We had a short day planned into Andover, where I was planning to take a night and deal with some mail things. Legs and Timber were just coming in for food and then heading out. Trout, Eskimo and Littlefoot were all staying as well.

Surprisingly, Pancake showed up too! Her ankle has recovered enough to keep her walking. I hope to catch up to Timber and Legs in Gorham, but it'll be fun to have the PELT group around (Pancake, Eskimo, Littlefoot and Trout).


Start: Hall Mountain
End: Andover (East B Hill Road)
Distance: 5.4 Miles

Day 25 - Reflection (26/7/2016)

Today was uneventful - we climbed a bit, descended a bit. I have some blisters under and between my toes, which is really the first time I've had foot issues. I think it's time for a quieter day.

There no available tent sites last night, so we crammed a shelter full. It's not easy to sleep with eight full grown men on camp mattresses, shifting around, snoring, dreaming, reading, etc... I woke up unrested, my clothes still wet from a rainfall, and under cloud cover promising another wet day. When I set out my mood was a bit low. For the first time I genuinely thought that I probably wouldn't finish the trail (not that I meant to leave any time soon, just that I was unlikely to enjoy this for four more months).

Things brightened a bit when Legs and Timber caught up. I still don't have a "Georgia or Bust" attitude, but the people out here have a way of making you want to stay on the trail.

I guess time will tell.

Start: Bemis Mountain
End: Hall Mountain
Distance: 12.8 Miles

Day 24 - Trail Angels (25/7/2016)

I had an early start this morning, found a nice swimming spot, and saw a newt.

Later I came to a roadway with a beautiful lookout called Height of the Land. There were a few cars and tourists about, and while I took pictures of some tiger lilies, a couple came up and struck up a conversation. The woman asked if I'd like a Starbucks, which I reflexively said yes to (Rule #1 of long distance hiking is never turn down anything that might be calories). Then it occurred to me that we were a long way from a Starbucks.

Off she went to her car and when she returned she offered me a chilled frappucino. Then her husband pulled out a beer. And then some leftover fried chicken, and some Doritos, and some lemonade. Luckily Legs appeared saving me from bursting into tears of joy, and more beer appeared. Then Timber arrived and some Cheetos came out. Then some apple chips.

Then, just as they were leaving out came another five beers. Suffice to say we had a good long break there. And to Cynthia and Bart, if you're reading this, you are truly the most angelic of Trail Angels.

Legs, Cynthia, Timber & Bart

Start: Little Swift River Pond
End: Bemis Mountain
Distance: 12 Miles

Day 23 - No Worries (24/7/2016)

A lazy morning was followed by a short hike to the road into Rangeley. I managed to hitch a ride almost immediately with a navy vet whose son had done the trail in 2001.

My goal today was just a quick resupply and some real food before hitting the trail again. One of the grocery staff told me about a cafe with good coffee and reliable wifi. I ordered a latte and a chocolate croissant, but before I could sit down, a friendly bearded fellow started up a chat. I turns out he was doing the trail too, but following yellow blazes on his BMW bike (yellow blazes are trail speak for road lines). We had a great conversation about nomadic life and lucky meetings, traded details, and then I went off to deal with blog and other digital needs.

As he was leaving he popped over and left me a pin with two worry dolls on it.

That was only the first cool thing to happen today.

[I just had to interrupt this because while writing it I just heard three very large, loud splashes in the pond I'm camped next to. I couldn't see anything, but I'd guess it was either a large animal (moose?) splashing into the pond, or a beaver felling trees. I'll take a closer look tomorrow if I can... Which is a nice segue into the second cool thing.]

When I got to my site this afternoon I found a canoe with a paddle and some PFDs! I finally got to be on the water again. I dropped my pack and took the least rickety looking canoe and spent 20 mins just wandering around (after relearning how to use a paddle).

I thought I'd have the site to myself, but then Legs and Timber showed up so they had a paddle, and we had dinner together.

Start: Piazza Rock
End: Little Swift River Pond
Distance: 6.6 miles + a detour into Rangeley

Day 21 - Moose of Old Age (22/7/2016)

Three weeks on the trail now. I woke up to a light rainfall, but I just waited it out in my cozy sleeping bag. Lots of "Happy Birthdays" as I emerged, and Timber (whom I'd met with his dad on Day 1) gave me a cherry pie. Legs and I shared an early morning shot of whiskey (Canadian Club), since they were heading on further than the party. I hope to catch them again some time.

It was a good day of hiking, and I got to see my 3rd moose. A buck this time who was in the trail as I turned a corner. Trout's beginning to resent my luck, and Pancake thinks I'm a moose diviner.

Camp brownies (omg so good), and scotch with new found friends. I miss my off trail buddies, but this is definitely a memorable birthday.

The brownies are burned into my pan a bit, which means everything will taste like that now.

Totally Worth It.

A great day.

Start: Spalding Mtn
End: Poplar Ridge
Distance: 8 miles (12 8 km)

Day 20 - 39 for one more day (21/7/2016)

After a pretty uneventful day and evening in Stratton, we headed out late today fully re-supplied. The challenge was to cover 25miles in the next couple of days to catch up to Trout and Eskimo to celebrate my 40th.

We're fully stocked for a party - Pancake bought brownie mix and a bottle of 12 year old Glenlivet (she wouldn't let me buy them). She's packing the whiskey, I'm packing the brownie. Probably because she knows better than to trust me with fine scotch.

I got to camp to find Trout and Eskimo there. Pancake's ankle has been injured so she's trailing behind a bit. She doesn't expect to make it to the first campsite, but she'll make up the distance in the morning. To make sure she's there, we decided to move the party 4 miles earlier. By nightfall we gave up on seeing her, and just hoped her ankle was ok.

Then she showed up! No headlamp, under cover of dark, she hobbled into camp just as most of us were about to crawl into bed.

Today was a good day of hiking. I got to know Littlefoot a bit better. He's a smart, positive and adventurous teen. I think he'll do some amazing things. I hope to walk with him a lot. Also spent a bit of time with Legs, who is another academic struggling with the uncertainty of Postdoctoral life. All in all a great day, though my hip is acting up again.

Start: Stratton
End: Spalding Mountain
Distance: 12.5 Miles (20 km)