Day 34 - Yes, Mr. Presidents (4/8/2016)

I take back what I said about the Whites. The NOBOs were right. The 2,800 foot climb to Mt Madison over 2.5 miles nearly destroyed me. I was way behind on my time, so I decided to forego summiting the other presidentials, and just stuck to the AT path. It turns out that first climb (over sharp, irregular rocks) was as bad as it got. Most of the traverse to Mt Washington was much friendlier. That said, it was still a slow slog.

But I made it!

Summit of Mt Washington

There were beautiful views, and I managed another 1.5 miles to Lakes of the Clouds. Despite the fear of crowding, only one other hiker had asked for work-for-stay so that's what I did. Some sweeping and dishes earned me a meal of enchiladas, pumpkin soup, and cream cheese brownies,

Start: 1 mile past Pinkham Notch

End: Lakes of the Clouds hut

Distance: 13.5 (very difficult) miles

Day 33 - Hut Life (3/8/2016)

A bunch of new and interesting experiences today. Now that I'm in the Whites for real, we have access to huts run by the Appalachian Mountain Club.  Guests at these huts pay $100 or more and get dinner and breakfast and a bunk. Hikers without money to burn can benefit from the huts in a couple of ways: 1) Most huts will allow a few hikers to do work-for-stay. You do some dishes and sweep, etc, and then you can have leftovers and sleep in the dining area. 2) Most of the time huts will have a lot of breakfast leftovers (and sometimes some dinner) which they leave out for hikers. They have to pack out whatever garbage there is, so eating leftovers is a bit of a symbiotic relationship. Today, I had leftover oatmeal and lasagna for second breakfast.

Yes, second breakfast is now really a thing that I do most days.

The other new thing today was summiting the Wildcat mountain range. Like the Mahoosuc area, I'd been hearing horror stories about the Wildcats for weeks. Like the Mahoosuc range, it wasn't nearly as bad as it's made out to be - or at least it wouldn't have been if I'd followed the trail. Instead, I did a short section of descent that could fairly be described as climbing down a rock climbing wall with boots instead of climbing shoes, and a 30lb pack on my back. It is the only time so far that I have been truly afraid. When I made it safely, I high-fived Pouch for not dragging me to my death and then noticed a suspiciously safe looking path just off to my left.

Where I descended

Where I was meant to descend

The rest of the descent was uneventful.

I also met a a nice guy named John who sort of collects Thru-Hikers. If you're reading this, John: Hi!

When I got to Pinkham Notch, I hung out at the Visitor Centre for a few minutes where I met Tim, from Allentown PA. We chatted about trail life and buddhism, and he sent me on my way with his contact info if I need help in PA, and bit of whiskey to hold me over for the next few days. I also tried his homemade chili-infused vodka and we talked about theatre, buddhism, and another trail in the south of Japan. The vodka was amazing, and I keep trying to imagine what Dave or Pete would do with it for a cocktail. It made me miss people off-trail a bit.

All in all a good day. The Whites have lost some of their power, though I have yet to hit the Presidential range, which is where things are supposed to really get tough.

Start: Middle/South Carter
End: 1 mile past Pinkham Notch
Distance: 10.5 Miles

Day 32 - Trail Wizardry (2/8/2016)

After a rest day in Gorham, it's time to hit the White Mountains. I don't know what to expect at all. NOBOs almost look shell-shocked when they talk about it, but all agree the views are spectacular. So far, though, I've found everything to be exaggerated: Nothing is as hard as people say, or as easy.

The toughest thing is the sleeping arrangements. There are many, many rules about camping in New Hampshire, and all official sites involve paying (and are often very crowded). There are huts, where one can do "work-for-stay." I guess I'll just have to figure it all out as I go along. Tonight I'm bedded down in the Wildcat range between two peaks.

The thing that worries me most is hitting the NOBO "Bubble" (a very large group - hundreds - of NOBOs all travelling within a few days of each other). It seems likely I'll hit them in the Whites, so I may take some time off in Lincoln, NH to see if I can let some of the crowd pass me by. The bubble also has a bit of a party reputation, which is not really what I'm after on this trek.

On the plus side, the day started with so much trail magic I'm beginning to think I'm a wizard: free breakfast from a guy who picked me up hitchhiking, pop/soda at the trail head, followed by beer and soda about a half-mile in.

Trail Magic

I also ran into Timber, Legs, Trout, Littlefoot, Eskimo and Papa Eskimo (E's parents are in town to celebrate his 18th birthday). All of them were slack packing the Wildcat range in reverse so I got lots of advice about what was to come. None of it consistent. As usual, I have no idea what's coming.

Day 30 - Moose of Haste (31/7/2016)

Today I had breakfast on Gentian Pond with a moose before racing 12 (relatively easy) miles into Gorham.

I'm not sure the day needs anything more said about it.

Start: Gentian Pond

End: Gorham, NH

Distance: 11.5 miles

Day 29 - out of the frying pan (30/7/2016)

This morning started with the discovery that the soft Platypus 1L container I'd been using to store my birthday whisky had sprung a leak. This left me with two choices: dump the whiskey, or... the thing I did instead.

As it turns out, being (mildly) drunk for most of a hard day makes it tough to cover 14+ miles. Still enjoyed the views though and... got through Maine! One state down, Thirteen to go.

At camp I met Bearfoot, a neurosurgeon who got his name when a small bear poked at his foot while he was sleeping, and his brother Klaus. I may see them again in a few days when they go do a section of the white mountains that they had to skip for weather. ‎

Start: Mahoosuc Notch South (Maine!)

End: Gentian Pond (New Hampshire!)

Distance 11.2 miles (not 15 miles)‎

Day 28 - Mahoosuc, you say? (29/7/2016)

It occurred to me this morning that Grafton Notch was only 2 miles away where I could probably get back to Andover and see about my documents. I reassembled my pack (which had exploded all over my tent in the frantic search) and then I felt it. In the bottom of my pack. My phone. And everything else. Hurrah!!!

B-Hiker was almost as happy as I was.

For weeks now I'd been hearing from NOBOs that the Mahoosuc area was tough. Especially the Mahoosuc Arm (a long steep section of bare rock) and the Mahoosuc Notch (a long, difficult rock scramble). Today I did them.

The Arm would have been deadly if I'd been climbing it, but on a dry day it was just a slow descent. It's not often I prefer going down to up, but this time I was glad to be a SOBO.

The Notch was just plain fun. Narrow passages. Caves, boulder climbs and scrambles! My rock climbing days were useful. This turned out to be a hard and short, but fun day.

Start:Bald Pate

End: South Mahoosuc Notch

Distance: 10.4 miles

Day 27 - Money, Tickets, Passport (28/7/2016)

I had a late start out of Andover this morning, so I pushed for 8 mile to get ove at least one ridge before the forecasted thunderstorms hit. Most of these ridges are long sheets of bare rock that are nice and grippy - when dry. When wet they become a hard, bumpy, painful slip 'n slide.

I managed to get to Bald Pate and settle in. Met a German woman living in New Jersey named B-Hiker and had a nice chat about the trail, but decided to turn in early. In my tent I went looking for my journal notebook whence I noticed a missing zip lock bag. A zip lock bag containing:

~$50 cash

1 mobile phone and battery 

1 credit card

1 debit card

1 driver's license

1 Canadian passport

And people thought bears would be the worst thing that could happen to me on the trail.

I begged kindness from B-Hiker who was heading into Andover and promised to call in at the hostel to see if it was there. She also gave me $20 to hold me over in Gorham. With any luck one of the PELT crew saw it and have packed it in for me.

Eep.

At least I still have my whiskey, because tonight I need a drink.

Start: Andover ME

End: Bald Pate

Distance: 8.0 miles