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Day 54 - I've been discovered (24/8/2016)

Trout seemed a little off this morning. We walked together a bit, but eventually he got ahead and I didn't see him again all day. I hope he's feeling better.

I was only planning around 14-16 miles today, since I needed to pop into Manchester Centre for some resupply and mail. That meant a lot more resting than yesterday, which was good. During one rest stop, a group of young hikers came through and one asked me if he could take my portrait! I saw no reason to say no, and then before I knew it he was taking a light measurement off my face and had whipped out a medium format camera! I think I'm part of an art project. I did have some pretty awed kids at both being a thru-hiker, and then knowing about the light meter and medium format camera.

If only my off-trail friends were so easily impressed!

If I'd been smarter, I'd have asked him to send me a copy and then taken a picture of him. Sadly, I was too tired to think of it at the time.

Today was mostly about recovery from yesterday.

Start: Big Branch
End: 1 mile past Bromley Shelter
Distance: 15.9 miles

Day 53 - Miles to go before I sleep. Many, many miles. (23/8/2016)

I found Trout!!

We've been within a few hours (or sometimes less than that) of each other for ages, it seems, but we could never quite find ourselves in the same space. After an early start this morning, I found him at the next shelter! He had 17 miles planned today, and I figure I'd stick with him. Turns out that if I did that, I'd do my first 20 mile day.

It was great to catch up with him. Apparently a few people he's mentioned me to have exclaimed "Is that the apple guy?!" One day I'll blog about why, but for tonight, I need to sleep off a 20 miler.

Start: 501 mile mark or so
End: Big Branch Shelter
Distance: 20.6 miles

Day 52 - Tribes by the Dozen (22/8/2016)

I think I might have forgotten to mention that I saw my first bear the other day. A young one, running away (as they usually are).

Today was a good day. I wanted to hit the library before heading out on the trail, so I found myself with 45 minutes to kill. This meant I could chat with the barista at the Yellow Deli, and find out a bit more about the community. I can't say that I learned all that much, really, except that they are quite fond of Yeshua (Jesus), and aren't all that Judaism inspired after all. He did pique my curiosity a bit though, so I'll try to visit the other Yellow Delis as I travel the trail and learn more.

I'm back to chasing miles today. I did about 13 in 6 hours, including hitting the 500 mile mark! (That would be more impressive if I wasn't supposed to be at 744.) Still, setting mileage targets and hitting them seems to be what I need right now. I'll get back to being "in the moment" when I'm more caught up.

Start: US 4
End: around the 501 mile mark
Distance: 12.6 miles

Day 51 - The Red Carpet State (21/8/2016)

This morning I woke up determined to cover the 12 miles to Rutland in a reasonable amount of time. I set out with the goal of keeping 2 miles/hr including any rest time. It turns out that Vermont made this easy. Vermont is essentially a long, soft, red carpet.

The Red Carpet State

My only real delay was for some trail magic (hamburgers)!

Tonight I'm staying at the Yellow Deli & Hiker Hostel. Yellow Delis are run by the 12 Tribes, which is a religious community (read commune/cult). I'd hoped to spend more time finding out about them, but when you have to resupply and you've already lost a few days in Hanover, it's hard to fit some anthropology into your day. I did, however, have dinner at the deli, and I can say with certainty that they make amazing sandwiches and the fruit salad was impressive.

Also, despite being a commune, they are very welcoming and inclusive. Here's the label on the deli bathroom doors (note that they do segregate men and women in the hostel, which is unusual):

 And this card was in my "welcome basket" on my bed:

And everything hostel-related is by donation or work-for-stay.

So whatever else you might hear about them, they are genuine in their desire to support people.

Start: mile 475
End: US 4, near Killington
Distance: 13.4 miles

Day 50 - People of the half century (20/8/2016)

I've been having real motivational problems lately. THis morning I couldn't get myself started until 9AM after making myself some coffee (which I haven't done yet on the trail - thanks Evergreen). Then I made it 15 mins before pausing for a long conversation with a NOBO.

The good thing about those conversations is that they usually inspire me to start walking again. Of course if you need an hour of conversation for every hour of walking, you don't get far. But I hit the trail reenergized and made it to a shelter for water. Then lunch. Then a nap. When I got started again it was 2PM and I'd walked around 3 miles, with little interest in doing more.

I forced myself 2 miles and ran into Passport. Passport had done 900 miles of the PCT earlier this year and was doing a section of the AT now. We had similar world and hiking philosophies and so another inspiring chat ensued. By the time I left there, it was 4PM and I'd done 5 miles. I managed 5 more before camping down.

I need to find a way to keep walking without taking 4 hours of rest every day.

Start: VT 12 + 1 mile
End: around the 475 mile mark
Distance: 10.5 miles

Day 49 - Zzzzzz (19/8/2016)

I'm exhausted today. Captain Stash lives on a train line near a road. Had some great magic and convos. Here's a bullet list:

• Linda and the Trail Magic House: Two blocks from Stash's is a large blue barn with an AT symbol an free breakfast.
• Evergreen: a great guy I met during a break who gave me coffee crystals since he had a resupply coming.
• Puddle: a U Waterloo alumnus!
• Honey Bear and Sunny: Two hikers slacking themselves for a bit. They had a veggie burger, onion rings and wine for me.

There was a field of cows that if I wasn't so tired, would make for a funny story. Another day perhaps.

Start: Stash and Cathy's

End: VT 12 + 1 mile

Distance: 13.8 miles

Day 48 - Green Mountain State (18/8/2016)

My package arrived yesterday, so it's back on the trail. Rather, it *arrived* on Friday, but the postal clerk finally *saw* it yesterday.

I've only seen Norwich so far, but right now the people of Vermont seem like the most generous I've met.

After 3 nights with Jennie at the Episcopal Church, I was about to leave town when I stumbled on a local cafe. The owners were abroad and had planned to close the shop, but the community rallied and were keeping it open as volunteers. The proceeds are going to charity. I had a latté (quite a good one, actually.)

When I did finally leave, I only made it 8 miles before I stumbled on a house with an AT sign and a camping symbol on it. I wandered onto the property, and meet Captain Stash. Captain did the PCT 40 years ago then accidentally bought a house on the AT. Now he and his partner Cathy let hikers camp there. Not only that, but Cathy gave me free reign in her vegetable garden. Fresh veggies on the trail! For dinner I had a cucumber and tomato salad with basil, and then stir fried some green beans, peppers, and broccoli to mix in with mashed potatoes. Delicious!

At the Norwich post office, I discovered the postal clerk had been discreetly hiding the "Charlton Heston" stamps because they don't sell well in Vermont.

This is a great state, and I've seen less than 10 miles of it.

Also managed to connect with Eskimo and Littlefoot over a drink at Starbucks. All in all, a good day.

Start: St. Barnabas Episcopal Church
End: Captain Stash and Cathy's, West Hartford
Distance: 7.2 very friendly miles

Days 45 and 46 - Hanover your gear! (15-16/8/2016)

I arrived in Hanover, went to the post office and discovered that my bounce box is missing. My bounce box holds the next map I need, most of my guide for the trail, cables and such for charging my watch and camera, clothes for town, one of my notebooks, and some other stuff that I'd really prefer to have.

So the last two days have been mostly preoccupied with food and finding my mailbox. So far, no one has any idea where the mail might be. I will say, though, that the USPS staff have been extremely generous with their time and energy. With any luck, it'll turn up soon.

Hanover, NH is easily the most hiker friendly town I've ever been too. One pizza place gives every thru-hiker a free slice of pizza, another bakery gives us a free donut or muffin. There's a community centre that will let you store your pack for the day, and offers cheap showers and laundry. There aren't many hostels, but the local college keeps a list of people who are willing to host hikers (trail angels). It's a busy time, so it took me a while to find someone with space but last night I stayed with the priest at an episcopal church just across the state line in Norwich, Vermont. This means that I've officially passed the 20% mark!

The minister also has a puppy, who woke me up this morning by a) licking my face, and b) stealing my cheese. I got up, had coffee, and joined the minister and her puppy on their morning park visit. God I love dogs.

My attempt to hold my feet together...

There's also some very good options for outfitters, so I've been able to replace my shoes, buy a new shirt, get a map to replace the one in my bounce box, and replace Pouch's rain cover!

I wasn't planning to zero here, but since I'm waiting on news about my mail I'll have to. I could do worse - there are some really nice places for food and drink here, and I haven't had time to try them all yet.

Start: um. Mile 425 or so.
End: Norwich, VT (though to be fair, I took a bus from Hanover to Norwich)
Distance: 18.3 miles

Day 43 - I'm wet! I'm wet and I'm hysterical! (13/8/2016)

The sugar shack was fun, it was nice to be sheltered from the torrential rains that hit in the early evening, and Pete had a pretty cool life story but in the end I probably should have skipped it in favour of some miles. I was (once again) reminded that I don't like shared sleeping arrangements. Late revellers, a couple "caring about each other deeply", and repeated intrusions by people looking for space to set up for the night meant that I didn't get much sleep.

As usual, that meant I was cranky when I woke. A situation not improved by the discovery that both the water and electricity were knocked out by the storms, so there would be no eggs and pancakes for breakfast.

The situation was further not improved by the thunderstorms that came while I was walking. Camping wet probably has some charms, but I have trouble seeing them today. Fortunately I'm not far from Hanover where it will be time for some serious gear shopping - my t-shirt is torn in several places, and my shoes have finally given up.

On a more positive note, the terrain has gotten friendlier making bigger miles easier. Also, the maté tea that my parents sent was amazing! I can't wait to make more.

Start: NH25A (near mile 408.5)
End: Around the 425 mile mark
Distance: 16.5 miles

Days 41 and 42 - Xmas in August (11-12/8/2016)

I hadn't thought I'd have much to talk about these last couple of days, but how wrong I was!

I'd planned to collect a bit of mail in Glencliff, only to discover that a "bit of mail" was:

2 t-shirts
2 tensor bandages
Some safety pins
2 bags of Nibs
4 boxes of smarties
An SHDC adapter for my camera
A USB cable
2 letters from Russia
A bag of maté tea
A rittersport candy bar
Electrolytes
A pound of Italian speck
A pound of Italian parmesan

I took a bit longer to get organised than I'd expected, but last night I had a speck and parm pasta dinner that could rival any Italian restaurant. All I needed was a nice Pinot Grigio.

This morning I set out to do 16-18 miles. I made it 3. A group of hikers waved me over to the truck that had just dropped them off. Indicating the driver, one said "This is Pete. You should go hang out with him for the day."

I paused. I'd just promised friends I'd be in NY in 3 weeks, which already meant 16 mile days.

Then I remembered a decision I made early on: since getting to Georgia wasn't the most important thing on my list, I would take advantage of any opportunities that could prove interesting. This seemed like one of those.

Pete, it turns out, is the son of a former state Governor who runs a sugar shack. For decades he has had hikers sleep in his shack in the summer, giving them free coffee, pancakes and maple syrup. Let me repeat that: pancakes and maple syrup, from the very shack I'm sleeping in, are FREE!

So here I sit, on the porch of a sugar shack, stuffed with pancakes and sipping beer, having completed only 13 miles in 2 days.

Life is good.

MacGruber, Sweetfeet, & Trotter at the sugar shack

Start: Mooselaucke peak
End: Mt Cube Farm
Distance: 13.5 miles

Day 40 - Eerie Silence (10/8/2016)

After all the meet ups yesterday, today I met a new hiker, Cookie Monster, who is another academic in the field of music. It's always good to commiserate with other academics and discover that our frustrations are cross-disciplinary.

More importantly, I summited Mooselaucke, which is the last mountain in the Whites, and the last 4,000' peak we'll see for a long time. All day was rain and clouds, but just as I was climbing to the top, the weather cleared. I was happy that I'd get some views as my days in the whites came to an end. Strangely, as I approached the peak, I could see th at it was in clouds. I was in the bright sunshine, and only a few hundred yards away it was clearly cloud covered. The light was an eerie orange-yellow because the sun was so close by, and yet visibility was limited.

The strangest moment came as I started to descend from the top. I was walking along a track between some short pines (still above the tree line) when I noticed an eerie silence. I stopped, an there was nothing to hear but ny own breathing and moving. No birds, no insects. Not even the rustling of leaves in a breeze, or the whistling of wind currents. This strange silence in the clouds felt really ominous. Luckily there was never more than the sense of strangeness, but it was a eemarkable.thing to experience.

Start: mid North & South Kinsman Peaks
End: 1 mile past Mooselaucke peak.
Distance: 15 miles

Days 38 & 39 - (8-9/8/2016)

Two interesting days. First, my plan had been to pop into Lincoln, do a quick resupply/laundry/library blog update, get some food, and move on. That plan died almost as soon as I arrived. I loved this little town. A woman with her baby in the passenger seat of her pickup let me ride in the box and took me to North Woodstock where  I had a wamlette for breakfast (an omelette served on top of a waffle). Then I headed to the Lincoln library where I spent 2 hrs on the computer updating the blog and uploading photos. [Can I just throw a quick shout out to Public Libraries everywhere? Support yours.]

Then I met Brendan. Brendan is a heavy drinking, middle-aged businessman who struck up a conversation with me at a brewpub that, strangely, did not serve any of its own beers. It turns out that Brendan was a high-flying "Wolf of Wall Street" type real-estate mogul who was adapting to small town life and missing his power-brokering, deal-making days. He drew a stark contrast to the way that I live my life, and while he seemed on the one hand jealous of me, I couldn't help but think that he'd probably hate living the way I do. He liked his Porsche, million dollar mansion [large enough to drunkenly land a helicopter in the yard, if needed, which he had at one point], and expensive watch. As much as I'd like some of those things too, I'm not sure the lifestyle would suit me anymore than my lifestyle would have suited Brendan. It's good to meet peopl who live differently sometimes to help you see why you make the choices you do.

That night, I decided I'd had enough of hostels for now so I splurged on a "cheap" motel (it's peak season in Lincoln, so cheap was relative). Did I mention I liked this place? Even the next day, it took me almost 6 hours to finally leave town.

Which, it turns out was lucky!

While walking along the trail, thinking about the usual (food, where would I sleep, food, etc...) I came upon a speedy trail walker/runner who, from a distance, seemed familiar somehow. When he got closer, I recognized Jesse, an old friend from undergrad whom I hadn't seen more than once or twice in the 15 years since those days! He did a double take, we hugged, and then sat down had a good long chat. Jesse [Slacker] is a longtime ultra marathon and trail runner and just happened to be taking a summer break to visit and run some of the White Mountains. It was amazing to run into someone so randomly, here in the wilds of New Hampshire.

Me and Slacker

Shortly after, Timber and Legs showed up (they'd met Slacker the night before at a hostel). After days of no familiar faces, I was now surrounded by on and off trail friends again. All of this was made possible by my failing to leave Lincoln on time, twice.

So to Brendan: Thanks both for the beer, and making it too hard to leave Lincoln. Keep hiking.

Start: Liberty Spring
End: Between North and South Kinsman Peaks
Distance: 8.4 miles

Mail drops

Rather than posting mail drops regularly, I'm going to maintain a list at this address: http://wallabyonthewallaby.blogspot.com/p/maildrops.html

You can also find a link in the sidebar to the right, or on mobile devices I think there's a drop down menu that reads "Home" by default.

Day 37 - A SOBO Sighting! (7/8/2016)

I'd noticed that it had been a while since I'd seen any of my SOBO buddies. Trout, Timber, Legs, Eskimo, Littlefoot, Wahoo, Pancakes, Silky Bear, Beef Jerky, Kangapard all seemed to be either ahead of or behind me, and not leaving any signs of themselves. To be honest, while I do enjoy solo travel, I was starting to miss familiar faces.

Today I crossed Franconia Ridge. You can find a vlog about it here (look for the video taken on August 7th), so I won't reiterate.

When I got to Liberty Springs tentsite (failing to find a good stealth site on the way), I stumbled across Beef Jerky! A familiar face! He didn't know where Kangapard was anymore, but it was nice to catch up. We hadn't crossed paths in weeks (last seen in Monson).

Tomorrow I head in to Lincoln for a quick resupply then back on the trail, I think.

Oh, and when I woke up this morning I discovered that I had also left my water bottle at the last hut, so I did in fact go back for it and my map.

Start: .5 miles from Galehead hut
End: Liberty Spring tentsite
Distance: 9.8 miles

Day 36 - More of same (6/8/2016)

Not much to note today really, except that I dodged two rainfalls by hanging out in huts where I met lots of nice families. Unfortunately, I left my map at the last one so I'm now mapless until Hanover.

Start: Ethan Pond
End: .5 miles past Galehead Hut (no, I'm not walking back a half mile just for a map)
Distance: 12.3 miles

Day 35 - Hut Life (remix) (5/8/2016)

I'm exhausted. Once again sharing sleeping quarters has meant virtually no sleep. I left too early to get leftover breakfast too, so I just summitted Mt Monroe for a bite to eat. It was a nice, quiet setting.

PB & J, summit style

I set out for Mispah hut for second breakfast leftovers only to find that they had done their jobs too well and there was nothing for me but a slice of bread, unbuttered. Life is hell. I then set out to stealth camp near Crawford Notch, only to find no camping available outside the official sites. $10 poorer, I'm finally in bed.

I'm cranky, but today wasn't all bad. Positives:

1. I met some more day hikers who were really impressed, incl. a group from Chicago who wanted photos.
2. I saw another moose! Ethan, who lives on Ethan Pond is the closest I've been to a moose that still allowed me to take photos.
3. I made an amazing tuna pesto pasta dish for dinner. Glad to add that to my menu.

Start: Lakes of the Clouds

End: Ethan Pond

Distance: 13.9 miles

Ethan the Bull Moose

Day 34 - Yes, Mr. Presidents (4/8/2016)

I take back what I said about the Whites. The NOBOs were right. The 2,800 foot climb to Mt Madison over 2.5 miles nearly destroyed me. I was way behind on my time, so I decided to forego summiting the other presidentials, and just stuck to the AT path. It turns out that first climb (over sharp, irregular rocks) was as bad as it got. Most of the traverse to Mt Washington was much friendlier. That said, it was still a slow slog.

But I made it!

Summit of Mt Washington

There were beautiful views, and I managed another 1.5 miles to Lakes of the Clouds. Despite the fear of crowding, only one other hiker had asked for work-for-stay so that's what I did. Some sweeping and dishes earned me a meal of enchiladas, pumpkin soup, and cream cheese brownies,

Start: 1 mile past Pinkham Notch

End: Lakes of the Clouds hut

Distance: 13.5 (very difficult) miles

Day 33 - Hut Life (3/8/2016)

A bunch of new and interesting experiences today. Now that I'm in the Whites for real, we have access to huts run by the Appalachian Mountain Club.  Guests at these huts pay $100 or more and get dinner and breakfast and a bunk. Hikers without money to burn can benefit from the huts in a couple of ways: 1) Most huts will allow a few hikers to do work-for-stay. You do some dishes and sweep, etc, and then you can have leftovers and sleep in the dining area. 2) Most of the time huts will have a lot of breakfast leftovers (and sometimes some dinner) which they leave out for hikers. They have to pack out whatever garbage there is, so eating leftovers is a bit of a symbiotic relationship. Today, I had leftover oatmeal and lasagna for second breakfast.

Yes, second breakfast is now really a thing that I do most days.

The other new thing today was summiting the Wildcat mountain range. Like the Mahoosuc area, I'd been hearing horror stories about the Wildcats for weeks. Like the Mahoosuc range, it wasn't nearly as bad as it's made out to be - or at least it wouldn't have been if I'd followed the trail. Instead, I did a short section of descent that could fairly be described as climbing down a rock climbing wall with boots instead of climbing shoes, and a 30lb pack on my back. It is the only time so far that I have been truly afraid. When I made it safely, I high-fived Pouch for not dragging me to my death and then noticed a suspiciously safe looking path just off to my left.

Where I descended

Where I was meant to descend

The rest of the descent was uneventful.

I also met a a nice guy named John who sort of collects Thru-Hikers. If you're reading this, John: Hi!

When I got to Pinkham Notch, I hung out at the Visitor Centre for a few minutes where I met Tim, from Allentown PA. We chatted about trail life and buddhism, and he sent me on my way with his contact info if I need help in PA, and bit of whiskey to hold me over for the next few days. I also tried his homemade chili-infused vodka and we talked about theatre, buddhism, and another trail in the south of Japan. The vodka was amazing, and I keep trying to imagine what Dave or Pete would do with it for a cocktail. It made me miss people off-trail a bit.

All in all a good day. The Whites have lost some of their power, though I have yet to hit the Presidential range, which is where things are supposed to really get tough.

Start: Middle/South Carter
End: 1 mile past Pinkham Notch
Distance: 10.5 Miles

Day 32 - Trail Wizardry (2/8/2016)

After a rest day in Gorham, it's time to hit the White Mountains. I don't know what to expect at all. NOBOs almost look shell-shocked when they talk about it, but all agree the views are spectacular. So far, though, I've found everything to be exaggerated: Nothing is as hard as people say, or as easy.

The toughest thing is the sleeping arrangements. There are many, many rules about camping in New Hampshire, and all official sites involve paying (and are often very crowded). There are huts, where one can do "work-for-stay." I guess I'll just have to figure it all out as I go along. Tonight I'm bedded down in the Wildcat range between two peaks.

The thing that worries me most is hitting the NOBO "Bubble" (a very large group - hundreds - of NOBOs all travelling within a few days of each other). It seems likely I'll hit them in the Whites, so I may take some time off in Lincoln, NH to see if I can let some of the crowd pass me by. The bubble also has a bit of a party reputation, which is not really what I'm after on this trek.

On the plus side, the day started with so much trail magic I'm beginning to think I'm a wizard: free breakfast from a guy who picked me up hitchhiking, pop/soda at the trail head, followed by beer and soda about a half-mile in.

Trail Magic

I also ran into Timber, Legs, Trout, Littlefoot, Eskimo and Papa Eskimo (E's parents are in town to celebrate his 18th birthday). All of them were slack packing the Wildcat range in reverse so I got lots of advice about what was to come. None of it consistent. As usual, I have no idea what's coming.

Day 30 - Moose of Haste (31/7/2016)

Today I had breakfast on Gentian Pond with a moose before racing 12 (relatively easy) miles into Gorham.

I'm not sure the day needs anything more said about it.

Start: Gentian Pond

End: Gorham, NH

Distance: 11.5 miles

Day 29 - out of the frying pan (30/7/2016)

This morning started with the discovery that the soft Platypus 1L container I'd been using to store my birthday whisky had sprung a leak. This left me with two choices: dump the whiskey, or... the thing I did instead.

As it turns out, being (mildly) drunk for most of a hard day makes it tough to cover 14+ miles. Still enjoyed the views though and... got through Maine! One state down, Thirteen to go.

At camp I met Bearfoot, a neurosurgeon who got his name when a small bear poked at his foot while he was sleeping, and his brother Klaus. I may see them again in a few days when they go do a section of the white mountains that they had to skip for weather. ‎

Start: Mahoosuc Notch South (Maine!)

End: Gentian Pond (New Hampshire!)

Distance 11.2 miles (not 15 miles)‎

Day 28 - Mahoosuc, you say? (29/7/2016)

It occurred to me this morning that Grafton Notch was only 2 miles away where I could probably get back to Andover and see about my documents. I reassembled my pack (which had exploded all over my tent in the frantic search) and then I felt it. In the bottom of my pack. My phone. And everything else. Hurrah!!!

B-Hiker was almost as happy as I was.

For weeks now I'd been hearing from NOBOs that the Mahoosuc area was tough. Especially the Mahoosuc Arm (a long steep section of bare rock) and the Mahoosuc Notch (a long, difficult rock scramble). Today I did them.

The Arm would have been deadly if I'd been climbing it, but on a dry day it was just a slow descent. It's not often I prefer going down to up, but this time I was glad to be a SOBO.

The Notch was just plain fun. Narrow passages. Caves, boulder climbs and scrambles! My rock climbing days were useful. This turned out to be a hard and short, but fun day.

Start:Bald Pate

End: South Mahoosuc Notch

Distance: 10.4 miles

Day 27 - Money, Tickets, Passport (28/7/2016)

I had a late start out of Andover this morning, so I pushed for 8 mile to get ove at least one ridge before the forecasted thunderstorms hit. Most of these ridges are long sheets of bare rock that are nice and grippy - when dry. When wet they become a hard, bumpy, painful slip 'n slide.

I managed to get to Bald Pate and settle in. Met a German woman living in New Jersey named B-Hiker and had a nice chat about the trail, but decided to turn in early. In my tent I went looking for my journal notebook whence I noticed a missing zip lock bag. A zip lock bag containing:

~$50 cash

1 mobile phone and battery 

1 credit card

1 debit card

1 driver's license

1 Canadian passport

And people thought bears would be the worst thing that could happen to me on the trail.

I begged kindness from B-Hiker who was heading into Andover and promised to call in at the hostel to see if it was there. She also gave me $20 to hold me over in Gorham. With any luck one of the PELT crew saw it and have packed it in for me.

Eep.

At least I still have my whiskey, because tonight I need a drink.

Start: Andover ME

End: Bald Pate

Distance: 8.0 miles

Day 26 - Andover (7/27/2016)

Woke up this morning to find that Trout had hiked a marathon (over 26 miles) to catch up, only to arrive under dark with me already asleep. It was good to hear his voice in the morning, though. We had a short day planned into Andover, where I was planning to take a night and deal with some mail things. Legs and Timber were just coming in for food and then heading out. Trout, Eskimo and Littlefoot were all staying as well.

Surprisingly, Pancake showed up too! Her ankle has recovered enough to keep her walking. I hope to catch up to Timber and Legs in Gorham, but it'll be fun to have the PELT group around (Pancake, Eskimo, Littlefoot and Trout).


Start: Hall Mountain
End: Andover (East B Hill Road)
Distance: 5.4 Miles

Day 25 - Reflection (26/7/2016)

Today was uneventful - we climbed a bit, descended a bit. I have some blisters under and between my toes, which is really the first time I've had foot issues. I think it's time for a quieter day.

There no available tent sites last night, so we crammed a shelter full. It's not easy to sleep with eight full grown men on camp mattresses, shifting around, snoring, dreaming, reading, etc... I woke up unrested, my clothes still wet from a rainfall, and under cloud cover promising another wet day. When I set out my mood was a bit low. For the first time I genuinely thought that I probably wouldn't finish the trail (not that I meant to leave any time soon, just that I was unlikely to enjoy this for four more months).

Things brightened a bit when Legs and Timber caught up. I still don't have a "Georgia or Bust" attitude, but the people out here have a way of making you want to stay on the trail.

I guess time will tell.

Start: Bemis Mountain
End: Hall Mountain
Distance: 12.8 Miles

Day 24 - Trail Angels (25/7/2016)

I had an early start this morning, found a nice swimming spot, and saw a newt.

Later I came to a roadway with a beautiful lookout called Height of the Land. There were a few cars and tourists about, and while I took pictures of some tiger lilies, a couple came up and struck up a conversation. The woman asked if I'd like a Starbucks, which I reflexively said yes to (Rule #1 of long distance hiking is never turn down anything that might be calories). Then it occurred to me that we were a long way from a Starbucks.

Off she went to her car and when she returned she offered me a chilled frappucino. Then her husband pulled out a beer. And then some leftover fried chicken, and some Doritos, and some lemonade. Luckily Legs appeared saving me from bursting into tears of joy, and more beer appeared. Then Timber arrived and some Cheetos came out. Then some apple chips.

Then, just as they were leaving out came another five beers. Suffice to say we had a good long break there. And to Cynthia and Bart, if you're reading this, you are truly the most angelic of Trail Angels.

Legs, Cynthia, Timber & Bart

Start: Little Swift River Pond
End: Bemis Mountain
Distance: 12 Miles

Day 23 - No Worries (24/7/2016)

A lazy morning was followed by a short hike to the road into Rangeley. I managed to hitch a ride almost immediately with a navy vet whose son had done the trail in 2001.

My goal today was just a quick resupply and some real food before hitting the trail again. One of the grocery staff told me about a cafe with good coffee and reliable wifi. I ordered a latte and a chocolate croissant, but before I could sit down, a friendly bearded fellow started up a chat. I turns out he was doing the trail too, but following yellow blazes on his BMW bike (yellow blazes are trail speak for road lines). We had a great conversation about nomadic life and lucky meetings, traded details, and then I went off to deal with blog and other digital needs.

As he was leaving he popped over and left me a pin with two worry dolls on it.

That was only the first cool thing to happen today.

[I just had to interrupt this because while writing it I just heard three very large, loud splashes in the pond I'm camped next to. I couldn't see anything, but I'd guess it was either a large animal (moose?) splashing into the pond, or a beaver felling trees. I'll take a closer look tomorrow if I can... Which is a nice segue into the second cool thing.]

When I got to my site this afternoon I found a canoe with a paddle and some PFDs! I finally got to be on the water again. I dropped my pack and took the least rickety looking canoe and spent 20 mins just wandering around (after relearning how to use a paddle).

I thought I'd have the site to myself, but then Legs and Timber showed up so they had a paddle, and we had dinner together.

Start: Piazza Rock
End: Little Swift River Pond
Distance: 6.6 miles + a detour into Rangeley

Upcoming Mail Drops

I now have several packages chasing me down the trail since it turns out that anything from Canada or abroad takes 8-14 business days to get to me. I'll try to start posting addresses further down the trail from now on.

My next locations will be:

Serje Robidoux (trail name Wallaby)
c/o Hiker's Welcome Hostel
P.O. Box 25
Glencliff, NH 03238
ETA: 12/8/2016

Serje Robidoux (Hold for Hiker)
c/o General Delivery
50 S Main St,
Hanover, NH 03755
ETA: 15/8/2016

Serje Robidoux (Hold for Hiker)
c/o General Delivery
2046 Route 4
Killington, VT 05751
ETA: 18/8/2016

As always, if you send something please let me know by email (and include a tracking number if you have one). That way I can bounce things forward if I outrun them. From Canada, XpressPost seems to be very fast (but I assume expensive).

Day 22 - The Thing Family (23/7/2016)

I parted ways with Pancake for the time being this morning. Her ankle is going to slow her down for a while, but hopefully it heals quickly and we meet again down the trail.

I kept finding blueberries and beautiful views over the ridges today. I kept 1/2 a cup for breakfast. :)

At camp, I met the Thing Family. This is me under Piazza Rock with Things 1 & 2, who were on their very first overnight hike. We had a great time climbing rocks and exploring caves before sharing gummy bears and marshmallows at camp. A great 40+a day.

Thanks to veggieguy (who sounds like Alan Alda!) for this photo.

Start: Poplar Ridge
End: Piazza Rock
Distance: 8.3 miles (13.5 km)

Day 21 - Moose of Old Age (22/7/2016)

Three weeks on the trail now. I woke up to a light rainfall, but I just waited it out in my cozy sleeping bag. Lots of "Happy Birthdays" as I emerged, and Timber (whom I'd met with his dad on Day 1) gave me a cherry pie. Legs and I shared an early morning shot of whiskey (Canadian Club), since they were heading on further than the party. I hope to catch them again some time.

It was a good day of hiking, and I got to see my 3rd moose. A buck this time who was in the trail as I turned a corner. Trout's beginning to resent my luck, and Pancake thinks I'm a moose diviner.

Camp brownies (omg so good), and scotch with new found friends. I miss my off trail buddies, but this is definitely a memorable birthday.

The brownies are burned into my pan a bit, which means everything will taste like that now.

Totally Worth It.

A great day.

Start: Spalding Mtn
End: Poplar Ridge
Distance: 8 miles (12 8 km)