Day 121 - Dragon's Tooth (30/10/2016)

As planned, we all woke up early and headed up to Dragon's Tooth to watch the sunrise. Our plan was not as well thought out as we hoped: the climb was much tougher than anticipated, and we nearly missed sunrise. We got there in the end, and enjoyed one of the most spectacular views on the trail.

The rest of the day was a bit of a struggle. After 80+ miles in 4 days, my body wanted a rest. Blueberry Crisp wanted to do a 16 mile day, while Flatlander is really trying to get us on board with her "no less than 20" mantra. In the end we compromised around 18 miles, which means I've done over 100 miles in 5 days.

Boy are my feet tired.

Still, despite the fatigue, it was a nice day and we made it to 1500 miles! There are no real landmarks tomorrow, so I might be able to just walk at a comfortable pace, though I do need to get to Pearisburg soon to resupply (and get a mail drop!)

For now though, it's time rest my weary bones.

Start: just north of Dragon's Tooth 

End: eastern continental divide

Distance: 18.6 miles

Day 120 - Smilin' and Milin' (29/10/2016)

The plan today was to hit McAfee's Knob, the most photographed feature of the AT (very popular with day hikers), and then race on to Catawba, where Blueberry Crisp had heard that the restaurant Homeplace was worth a hitchhike into town.‎ It turned out to be the kind of day that was both unremarkable, and yet thoroughly enjoyable. We had a good time and some nice chats at the knob, and then an amazingly filling meal @ Homeplace. From there, the nicest southern couple gave us a ride back to the trailhead, including patiently waiting for me to buy a few things I forgot in our last resupply.

It's also been nice having Blueberry Crisp around. I had a conversation in French for the first time in a really long time.

It was all skittles and rainbows today, until I saw my first ever black widow spider*. Crawling past the door to my tent while I set up... <shudder>

Basically I'm just loving the trail right now, and looking forward to Dragon's Tooth at sunrise and 1,500 miles tomorrow. As Flatlander put it when I told her to focus on smiles, not miles: "I'm smilin' *and* milin'."

Start: Lambert's Meadow Campsite 

End: tentsite just north of Dragon's Tooth 

Distance: 17.5 (s)miles

* there is now one less black widow spider in the world. You're welcome.

Day 119 - the percentage of the beast (28/10/2016)

Things that happened today:

- 5:15 am wake up

- 10 fast miles into Troutville

- pass the 66.6% point

- shower and laundry 

- race to Daleville (1.5 miles)

- BBQ and resupply

- race to 9 miles to campsite 

- stop to climb Hay Rock for sunset

So after my first day beginning and ending my hike with a headlamp, I'm too tired to add more.

Start: Wilson Shelter 

End: Lambert's Meadow Campsite

Distance: 20.3 miles

Day 118 - (27/10/2016)

Another early start this morning, with Flatlander and I hitting the trail at 7. Nothing really remarkable to note. More beautiful autumn hiking, and some nice views. Near the end of our day we ran into a friendly couple who were out watching for hawks. They gave us water, pretzels, goldfish, and grapes and we had a good chat. Blueberry Crisp (a hiker from Québec City) caught up to us, and we all three made our way to the shelter.

Tomorrow we head into Townville for showers and laundry at the fire hall , then on to Daleville for resupply and BBQ!

Start: tentsite

End: Wilson Shelter 

Distance: 23.9 miles

Day 117 - Throw me the idol; I’ll throw you the whip! (26/10/2016)

Flatlander and I had planned to get up early, have breakfast at Bosses, then try our luck with an early morning hitch to the trailhead. Breakfast was foiled by Bosses bring closed on Wednesdays. We made do with breakfast sandwiches from the grocery freezer.

We lucked out on the ride, though. A former thru-hiker who was on his way to do some trail work saw us, turned around, and gave us a ride so we hit the trail at 8am.

Mostly we hiked separately, but met for lunch, and to play on the Guillotine. Flatlander and I are on different schedules, so I imagine she'll dart off ahead eventually, but it was nice to have a hiking buddy again for the day.

Speaking of hiking buddies, Pancake had to have a root canal done today, so cross your fingers that she recovers quickly.

Start: Glasgow, VA

End: Campsite below Floyd Mountain

Distance: 21.5 miles

Day 116 - Dog Days of Autumn (25/10/2016)

Coldest morning to date. Temperatures dropped to 2 Celsius, which would have been colder at elevation. The wind didn't help. Between that and the start of an illness (a cold, of course), it was a slow start. And an odd one.

Around a half hour into my walk, I saw a motionless lump in the middle of the trail. Now, the trail here was narrow, and with a steep ascent on my left, and a steep drop on the right. I thought maybe someone had dropped a piece of gear. Until it lifted its head and i realized it was a dog! Clearly a family pet, since it had both a collar with a bell on it, and either a bark collar, or an invisible fence collar. In any case, I tried to get her to come to me but she was very wary and immediately started down the trail. She'd go up a but, stop and look back, then when I got too close she'd move on again. Eventually I lost her at a fork in the road where I think she took the side trail.

Too bad. I'd built up a little fantasy where her owners didn't want her back, so I had her join me all the way to Springer. In any case, I hope her family finds her soon.

The day ended in Glasgow, VA when I (and 3 other hikers) waited over two hours for a hitch into town. It turned out there was a nice town-provided shelter with power and a hot shower. That and the chance to have some wine and play gin rummy was enough to keep me in place.

Start: near Saltlog Gap

End: Glasgow VA

Distance: 8 miles

Day 115 - Congrats, Beef Jerky! (24/10/2016)

I finally got to watch a beautiful sunrise this morning.

Other than that, just another day on the trail. I met a section hiker who had been doing the trail a week at a time from age 13. He took a shine to me and I scored some free food (he had a resupply coming up and was all too happy to lighten his load).

Also I heard from Beef Jerky that he's completed his trail, which makes him officially the first person I know on the trail to finish. He says he still eats like a hiker a week and a half later, so he's putting on weight.

A solid hiking day, I think.

Start: near Tar Jacket Ridge

End: just before Saltlog Gap

Distance: 21.7 miles

Day 114 - That's me in the spotlight (23/10/2016)

Another cold morning, but it turns out that climbing a long hill keeps you warm. And The Priest is a loooooong hill. It's never particularly tough, but it felt like it would never end. Kinda like going to mass when I was a kid. I guess that's how they named it.

It did end, though, eventually, and I started the ridge crossing. It was beautiful. The leaves now cover the ground completely in most places, so every step is announced by the dry crunching under foot. I love autumn hiking.

For lunch, I stopped on Spy Rock. I'd planned a quick lunch to make up for the slow climb in the morning, but struck up a conversation with a nearby couple. They were very curious about the Trail and life on it. I've gotten so used to it that I forget how remarkable it is to experience it. I'm glad I lengthened my lunch to keep the chat going.

Later I met a pair of day hikers who shared their fresh fruit (!) and gave me a packet of ProBar chews. They're sort of like GU Chews, but taste good. I may try to order some for down trail.

I didn't get my usual mileage today, but as usual, the reasons were well worth the time.

Start: VA 56

End: near Tar Jacket Ridge

Distance: 17.7 miles

Days 112 and 113 - How many loko? (21-22/10/2016)

I was both eager to be back on the trail, but in no mood to try for miles. I decided to head out early afternoon, and aim for 8 or 9 miles. Good thing, since rains came hard in late morning... and it meant I got to see Shakespeare and Flatlander again! I don't know how, but I ended up ahead of them. Life on the trail is a constant surprise.

I pitched a tent near the top of Humpback Mountain. I knew we were in for a cold night, but now there was also a wind advisory. After my last attempt to cook in wind, I was cleverer this time. I pitched my tent to block the wind, then set up a cook area inside my vestibule on on other side.

It didn't work. Another dinner of half-cooked pasta and lukewarm chicken soup. I think I just need to use more fuel in cold weather.

The night was nice. I stayed cozy and warm until my alarm went off.

The morning was cold. Very, very cold. For the first time I wore all three layers of tops + my wind/rain jacket, two layers of bottoms, my toque and my gloves to walk. It was just enough to keep me comfortable, mainly because the high winds were around for ages. Still, I managed and it was a beautiful day for walking. Gradually I stripped down to my usual hiking attire, though I never took the windbreaker off.

Around noon I walked past a camping spot and noticed a beverage can nestled into some tree branches. As usual I was annoyed that anyone who left trash behind, until I noticed it was unopened... free drink!

It turns out it was a can of something called Four Loko. I'd never had one before, so I decided to try it at lunch. I knew it was a sort of sweet alcoholic cooler type drink.

Turns out it is a sweet alcoholic cooler type drink that has 12% alcohol. It was like drinking 3/4 of a bottle of wine. For the second time, I found myself accidentally hiking drunk. This time, though, it didn't seem to slow me down. Maybe I even hike better drunk?

Tomorrow morning, I climb The Priest: a 3 mile, 3,000 ft climb.

And now the blog is officially caught up to me! I'll try to keep that up, but data service has been spotty lately.

Start: Waynesboro, PA

End: VA 56

Distance: 29.8 (10.6 + 19.2)

Day 111 - Waynesboro VA (20/10/2016)

I had planned to head out at 7am again this morning but clouds rolled in and made it too dark to walk without a headlamp. I was forced to sit and have a coffee while waiting for the sun to rise a bit and brighten the day. It was a nice leisurely start, but also meant that I had to do 8 miles in 2.5 hrs to meet Karen for my ride to Waynesboro. That would usually be OK, but for some reason the last few miles of Shenandoah are quite a bit more challenging than the first 100. Still, I managed to make it and am glad to avoid hiking in the hot, humid air for today.

‎

I had the great fortune of riding with Karen, her husband Jack, and their two beautiful Golden Retrievers. I tried to "borrow" one until December, but Karen kept a wary eye on me. Since they were generous enough to drive me to an outfitter for a gear resupply, and then to a diner for breakfast, I didn't steal their dogs (also, Karen knew to watch me like a hawk).

After a breakfast fit for a hiker (good, but more importantly, huge) I headed to my hostel, where I found Cinderella and Waterboy as expected. Less expectedly, I also found Timber and PinkyPurple!!* C and W are ahead of me now, having arrived last night, but T and PP are sticking around so I'll get to catch up with them.

All in all, a rewarding nero.

Start: just north of Calf Mountain 

End: Waynesboro VA 

Distance: 8 miles

* I'm a bit sad that Timber and Legs are now separated. They were my favourite trail "couple" and I really thought they'd hike the whole way together.

Day 110 - Hello Darkness, My Old Friend (19/10/2016)

Without a headlamp, I slept in a bit this morning but still found myself carefully breaking camp in the dark. By 7, it was bright enough to walk so I set out for a camp store to get some food supplies since I was short a breakfast. This was also my last chance for postcards from Shenandoah.

While there I had a coffee, charged my phone and had several great conversations about the Trail, including one with Karen who kindly offered me a ride into Waynesboro tomorrow morning! Off I went, planning to take up that offer.

Water has been plentiful in Shenandoah despite a low rain season, so I haven't had to worry about that. The leaves are turning (fast!) and the weather is beautiful, if a bit warm. I wasn't in a hurry since I only had to cover 28 miles in two days.

Then at lunch I noticed there were no water sources for the next 11 miles. I had about a litre, which was enough to hold me over with a bit of rationing. The greater issue is that without a headlamp, I needed to cover 11 miles, load up on water, and find a campsite with enough time to cook and set up camp before dark.

Now I was in a hurry. I managed it, in the end, but only just. I had to pitch my tent in the dark. I'm not thrilled with my bear hang, but if a bear gets my food now, he won't be very satisfied and I can replenish tomorrow.

In the end it all worked out, though I did start to fear the possibility of trying to hike and find a campsite using my phone flashlight.

Tomorrow a short 8 miles and then a hostel stay in Waynesboro. A hostel! Hopefully a proper one.

Start: Lost Mountain

End: .3 or so before Calf Mountain Shelter*

Distance: 21.8 miles

* yes, I could have pressed on to here in a pinch - and would have - but let's not forget how much I dislike communal sleeping arrangements.

Day 109 - From Darkness Into Darkness (18/10/2016)

I started hiking in the dark again today. I'm liking the early morning starts. It makes it easy to get a good day in before the end of the daylight, so I don't have to cook in the dark. Also saw another owl.

That said, hiking in the dark (morning or night) requires a headlamp. Which I appear to have left on a rock somewhere in Shenandoah National Park. Fortunately I only have to get to Thursday without it, when I'll overnight in Waynesboro, Virginia. In the meantime, I guess I'm forced to sleep in a bit, because breaking camp in the dark is a great way to forget more things.

Start: Bald Mountain

End: Loft Mountain

Distance: 20.8 miles

Day 108 - Docile Deer (17/10/2016)

I woke really early this morning, and instead of forcing sleep, I started the day early. I was hiking by 6am, which was well before dawn. I hoped to catch a sunrise, but the trail stayed to the west all morning.

The plan was to hit the next Wayside and get some lunch since I'm a bit under stocked in the pantry area. On the way I picked up Cinderella and Waterboy, and we passed an owl, and two deer who did not care about us all. I was within 5 yards of one who just slowly wandered away a bit.

I've also started meeting a whole new set of hikers: flip-floppers who started going north from Harpers Ferry to Katahdin, and have now returned to go south to Mount Springer. So far there's Spidey, Nine Bears, and Add Coffee. I'm curious to see how that changes the trail experience. 

Start: around 1254.8

End: Bald Mountain

Distance: 22.4 miles

Day 107 - Misty Shenandoah (16/10/2016)

Camping may have been a bit miserable last night, but I woke up to this this morning:

Then I hit up a wayside (camp store with some food) and had a coffee and cinnamon bun to go with my oats.

Later I ran into Cinderella and Waterboy (or rather they caught up to me) and then Mr. Bisquick and Moosetracker! I hadn't seen the latter two since The Antlers in the Hundred Mile Wilderness ! They'd taken some time off trail for illness and had decided to skip forward to keep on schedule. It was good to see them and I was surprised they remembered me. They also talked about the SOBO Serial Novel! They'd met a group of girls who were reading them faithfully.

I hiked a bit with Waterboy and Cinderella, then camped down after around 19 miles. They pressed on for a bit longer. Hope I see them again tomorrow.

Start: Top of Hogsback Mountain

End: Around 1254.8

Distance: 18.8 Miles

‎

Day 106 - Shenandoah! (15/10/2016)

Today marks my first day in Shenandoah National Park. This is one of the sections that most AT hikers call their favourite, so I've been pretty excited about it. It did not disappoint...

We're finally back to some spectacular views and the walking track is every bit as beautiful as we were promised: for the first time, a section is just as good as NOBOs have said it was.‎

Camping was a bit rough. The winds were so high I had trouble getting my stove lit, then it died before cooking my food. Partly cooked macaroni, and semi-dehydrated chili were not the quality to which I have become accustomed.

Start: Mosby Campsite

End: Top of Hogshead Peak

Distance: 19.4 miles

Day 105 - it's beginning to smell a lot like xmas (14/10/2016)

Tonight I "bathed" with peppermint scented soap and now I feel like it's Christmas. I hope bears don't know about Christmas, or I'm in trouble.‎

The walking has been beautiful. I like this Virginia state.

For some reason, though, NOBOs have to be taller than SOBOs for the Roller Coaster.

Start: 1,094

End: Mosby Campsite

Distance: 22.6 miles

Day 104 - sub 1k (13/10/2016)

More brave deer around the campsite this morning. Today I planned to do 21 miles to get through The Roller Coaster - a 13.5 mile stretch of ascents and descents. I underestimated how much they would slow me down and took too many breaks, so had to camp at a tent site about 2.5 miles short of my goal.

Ah well. At least I had a few minutes to catch up with Guillotine, who was laid up at a hostel with bronchitis. I hadn't seen him since Massachusetts. 

Start: David Lesser Shelter

End: mile 1,194 (less than 1,000 to go)

Distance: 18.7 miles

Day 103 - Harpers Ferry (12/10/2016)

Papa Wallaby left me in Harpers Ferry this morning and started the drive home. I'd planned for 9 miles today assuming that the big pack and big miles would make for slow going. Which they did. Eventually.

As usual when I'm in a town, I can't leave, and Harpers Ferry was no different. In fact, it was made worse because of the ATC headquarters that offer a hiker lounge and lots of interesting people. Among them, Cinderella and Waterboy.

I met Cinderella and Waterboy when I was slack packing with Pancake in New Jersey, and have since run into them every time I've been a NOBO, and each time we had a great long conversation. To the point where I started to think it was sad that we didn't get to hang out more on the trail. Turns out they'd been thinking the same thing, so we got a group photo and traded contact details so that we could keep in touch for the rest of our journeys.

I also, finally got a picture of some deer. The deer here are much less skittish, and even hung out 10 yards/metres away from my tent pad while I set up.

Tomorrow, hopefully it'll be right back to bigger miles again, though I think the days of 30+ are gone.

Start: Harpers Ferry, WV

End: David Lesser Shelter

Distance: 9.3 miles

Day 102 - Into the Virginias (11/10/2016)

This is my last day of slack packing, so I decided to go for another big day. Papa Wallaby dropped me off in Harpers Ferry, WV (yep, another state done) and I headed north. The fog on the river created a stunning view as I crossed the bridge.

Day 101 - The Dalmatian of Days (10/10/2016)

I decided on a more modest day today, in part for logistical reasons and in part because I'm still a bit tired. I ran into all of the usual suspects. I'm really beginning to like this cohort of SOBOs. Shakespeare and Flatland, and BXE are too fast for me, but I hope to get more time hiking with Cinderella and Waterboy. So far I've only ever met them while NOBOing.

By far the coolest wildlife experience I've had was today. On the trail, I noticed a large bird on a branch just 30 or 40 yards down the trail. I stopped and tried to get my phone out to take a picture. Just as I was pulling it out, the bird (I think an eagle) flew from the branch and directly at me! It passed with it's wings fully spread out, no more than a foot from my waist, and soared on into the forest and out of sight.

Papa Wallaby tells me that's a good omen. I wish good omens weren't so close to being attacked by a large bird of prey.

Also, I finished Pennsylvania. So that's 8 of 14 states down.

Just as I was ending my hike, I ran into Pancake who had twisted her ankle and was struggling. I offered to give her a ride to Walmart for a resupply, so she and Papa Wallaby met and Papa Wallaby got to play Trail Angel!

Start: Wolfville Rd, Maryland
End: Old Forge Rd, Pennsylvania
Distance: 17.6 miles

Day 100 - Wuckers! (9/10/2016)

I can't believe it's now a full century of days on the trail.

I had planned to do a small day today, maybe 15-20 miles, but realised that I had some stuff to take care of that could benefit from a zero day. Not the least of which was hanging out with Dad. So today started with a bit of a sleep in and then breakfast. Then Papa Wallaby and I headed to Gettysburg to do a little history.

Then we drove to REI near Washington DC and I bought some gear, and we resupplied at Walmart. It was good to just have a day to hang out.

Miles: Zero

PS: you can all thank Genevieve for the title to this blog.

Day 99 - The Wayne Gretzky of Days (8/10/2016)

Back to that NOBO life! I headed out for a 30 mile day this morning. I wore my running shoes, which was mostly fine except that my feet have clearly gotten bigger by about a half-size. I even ran for a few kilometers (in the wrong direction for part of it. sigh.). Papa Wallaby spent the day doing Papa Wallaby things (it involves a huge chocolate bar from the Hershey's factory). NOBO ing was just as much fun again - ran into BXE, Pancake, Trout, Chef, Cinderella, Waterboy, Shakespeare, and Flatland. I only just made it before dark.

Most remarkably, I hit the midpoint of the trail! The miles I have left are now smaller than the miles I've done!

Not the real midpoint anymore, but the most impressive sign.

Start: Old Forge Rd.

End: Pine Grove Furnace

Distance: 30.1 miles

Day 98 - Takin' out the trash (7/9/2016)

Biker and Hiker Trash

Today marks the start of another few days of slack packing. Papa Wallaby came down from Ontario and picked me up at Pine Grove Furnace. He'll slack me for four days, then head home. I'm hoping to get about 100 miles done, though that might be a stretch.

I showered, we had lunch, and visited the Appalachian Harley-Davidson store. The receptionist there was very friendly and asked me to send her a post-card down trail. It was a pretty relaxed day.

Critically, Papa Wallaby brought me a new phone (thanks Colin!!) and my laptop. So a good chunk of the day was spent getting the phone set up, buying an external battery pack, and updating blog entries.

In passing, a quick reminder that lots of photos that don't make the blog are available here.

Start: Tentsite at 1075.9

End: Pine Grove Furnace State Park

Distance: 11.5 miles 

Day 97 - Let's talk about food (6/10/2016)

[with apologies to Salt 'n Pepa]

Let's talk about food, baby
Let's talk about cal-ories
Let's talk about all the good things
 and the bad things
that I eat
Let's talk abouuut food.
Let's talk about food.

Today I could barely do 8 miles. I attributed my sluggishness to the long walk yesterday, which no doubt played a role, but I realised something else as well:

Meal	Typical	Yesterday	Today
Breakfast	2 cups of oats with dried fruit + Clif Bar with peanut butter (optional)	3 Huge Pancakes + bacon 1 bite of scrapple (regrettable)	Normal person sized breakfast skillet
Morning snack	Clif Bar with peanut butter (optional)	...	...
Lunch	3 wraps - 2 pepperoni and cheese, 1 peanut butter + Clif Bar with peanut butter (optional)	...	Normal person half sandwich and half bowl of soup
Afternoon snack	Clif Bar with peanut butter (optional)	Clif Bar with peanut butter	....
Dinner	2-3 cups of tuna casserole (pasta and tuna) + cup-a-soup or hot chocolate + Clif Bar with peanut butter (optional)	2 wraps	Normal dinner

Unsurprisingly, without more food in my body, I had little energy left after such a big day of walking.

I camped down at 5 pm, made a huge meal, and went to bed.

Start: Boiling Springs

End: Tentsite around 1075.9

Distance: 7.5 miles

Day 96 - Blueberry Pancakes Marathon (5/10/2016)

Our neighbour at the campsite this morning decided to harmonize with the trains by running his diesel engine for about an hour beside my tent. Suffice to say that I didn't sleep well.

Pancake slept even worse and woke to find someone had hacked her iCloud account and was sending Chinese spam messages.

In that mood, we headed into Duncannon for breakfast. Popping into Goodies Restaurant, we found Flatlander and Shakespeare already there waiting for their food. As we sat down, the food arrived and the three biggest pancakes I've ever seen were placed in front of Flatlander, who had unwittingly also ordered two sides.

Her hiker hunger was being tested. Her thru-hiker credentials were on the line.

Immediately I decided to order three blueberry pancakes. I also had Pancake and Shakespeare trying to convince me to try something called "scrapple." Here is how the waitress described scrapple when asked:

"It's all the parts of the pig you don't eat."

I ordered bacon.

Pancake insisted on ordering scrapple so I could taste it. I did. It was as bad as it sounds. Only in PA would that be a normal thing.

My goal had been to do 20 miles or so that but, but Trout pointed out that we were in the Cumberland Valley. That meant everything was private farmland, so camping might be tough. PA is also a stand your ground state, which means that if an owner found me camping, they could legally shoot me. 'merica.

From far enough away, you can't tell how terrible Duncannon is.

I set out anyway. All of PA has been covered in stealth sites. Instead, it turned out Trout was right. There was no camping, and so I decided to just press on to Boiling Springs where there was another train-track-adjacent campsite available. On the way, I picked up with BXE - a recently retired math teacher from North Carolina who had come to the same decision I had, and was about to finish his second consecutive 30+ mile day. BXE had arranged a hostel though, so when we arrived in Boiling Springs, we parted ways. As I wandered campsite-ward, an SUV pulled up and BXE's hostel talked me into staying there for $12, where I could get a hot shower, and a quiet, warm, and comfortable place to sleep.

This would have been both warmer and more comfortable.

I got two of those things. The sleeping quarters at this "hostel" was a small shelter with three walls, two of which were trellis fencing. The beds were a triple-decker bunk bed. But before you go imagining a lofty space with high-ceilings, let me assure you: there was only space for a regular bunkbed. It was as if the bunks were designed by the same engineer who came up with economy class seating on airplanes. Imagine morgue drawers, but without the convenient drawer sliding mechanism. Also, the "mattresses" were just thin foam mats. So after bundling up in all of my clothes, and yoga-folding myself into the middle bunk, I realised that would have been much warmer and far more comfortable in my tent. The hostel was quieter, though. And the shower was hot (though I was about to go off trail for a few days of hotel, so that wasn't worth $12).

Anyway, on a more positive note I have a new "biggest day", and I've now completed the marathon challenge.

Start: Duncannon
End: Boiling Springs
Distance: 26.9 miles.

Days 94 & 95 - Hiker HIITs & Duncannon (3-4/10/2016)

Off trail, there were two things I loved: running and high intensity interval training (HIIT). I'd been missing those, so I decided to create a sort of hiker version. The idea is to walk at a really fast pace (3-3.5 mph) for 60-90 minutes, rest, and repeat. Doing that, I managed around 20 miles yesterday, which meant that I caught up to Pancake again (she'd done a big day the day before).

Trout is doing big miles these days, so he's well ahead at the moment.

Today we headed into Duncannon. I can best describe Duncannon as a Trump-loving shit hole. We camped for $5 beside a train track, Pancake got herself thrown out of The Doyle for daring to visit with Trout, and we generally just had a great time in a small conservative town with friendly people. I won't be sad to leave, but I'll remember it fondly.

I'm also having serious problems with my phone these days. I'm pretty sure it's about to die.

Start: around 1005.8
End: 1041.5
Distance: 35.7 miles (20.6 + 15.1)

Day 93 - 1k (2/10/2016)

I hit 1,000 miles today! That's really all that happened, but it seems worthy of its own entry.

Start: near PA 183
End: about 1005.8
Distance: 18.1 miles

Day 92 - Shhh. Be vewy vewy quiet, I'm hunting wabbits. (1/10/2016)

It's hunting season! The whole day was punctuated by gunshots in the distance. Like, a lot of gunshots. I've decided it's time to put away my deer impressions and wear orange.

SC and Pancake had planned to head to Hamburg for dinner, then find a stealth site near the road. I decided to join them, and we also met with Shakespeare (who I hadn't seen since Maine) and Flatland.

By the time Pancake finished her laundry, and we got Shakespeare and Flatland back to their shelter, it was 9 pm. That's around midnight HST (Hiker Standard Time). SC dropped Pancake and I off at the trailhead and started for home, while we night-hiked in the rain over rocky ground to find a stealth site.

So after three months, I've done just under 1,000 miles (987.7). Phew.

Start: Port Clinton
End: stealth near PA183
Distance: 14.7 miles

Day 91 - Hamburg, Home For Hikers (9/30/2016)

Another wet day. Rains fell until noon or so, and then cleared a bit. Trout and I went into town for a quick resupply. The Hamburg area may have displaced Hanover NH as the most hiker-friendly town:

• The trail passes by a barber shop where we could sit, have some coffee and cookies, and charge our phones.
• At Walmart, I accidentally put Pouch in front of the power supply for the motorized carts. When I came back to them, the staff were apologizing *to me*, and bent over backwards to find me somewhere else to plug in my phone.
• As we were stuffing our bags with our resupply, a random stranger came over and handed us Powerades and several Mountain House and AlpineAire meals, saying he just liked to help out hikers when he saw them. We saw another customer give some hikers fresh fruit.
• While we were walking over to Cabela's, a red car pulled up and asked if we wanted a ride. Not only did he drive us to the door, but he gave us some beer and then told us to message him when we were ready to get back to the trail and he'd give us a ride. I'm 90% sure he sat in the parking lot waiting as we visited...

THE LARGEST CABELA'S IN THE WORLD

It almost made me wish I was a hunter/fisherman, so I could enjoy it more fully.

On our way back to the trailhead, we found Pancake and SC again, and are now all camped out near Port Clinton.

Start: Eckville Shelter

End: Top of hill outside Port Clinton

Distance: 15.9 miles

Day 90 - Home is where the bunks are (29/9/2016)

Rain. A lot of it. Then mist.

Pouch hangs out outside of Eckville.

Per last night's plan, I set out to do 18-20 miles to get close enough to Hamburg to resupply in the morning. On the way, I popped into the Eckville Shelter because a) it was supposed to be really nice with power, a shower, and real porcelain toilets, and b) because it shared a name with the town of my birth. It really was worth the visit, with padded bunks and a fully enclosed bunk house. Far and away the most luxurious shelter I've seen. I took a quick nap, then headed back on the trail only to run into Trout arriving. He offered to spot me some lunch for the next day so that I could stay at Eckville, which I did. Pancake joined us and we had another good evening followed.

Here's hoping the rain backs off soon, though it is nice to see running streams again.

Start: New Tripoli Campsite
End: Eckville Shelter
Distance: 13.8 miles

Day 89 - and then there was one... (28/9/2016)

North Side Trail

Tim made us all an amazing Mexican breakfast of eggs, refried beans and tortillas then dropped us back at the trail. The three of us (Pancake, Trout, and me) met up at the next shelter, where Trout and Pancake were both feeling pretty down (Trout for illness, Pancake for fatigue and a general malaise). I took a side trail Tim had recommended, and had some beautiful views to carry me through to the next shelter where Pancake and Trout decided to call it a day. I took care of some phone stuff while I had a signal. I had to overcome the draw of a warm fire and Pancake and Trout's campaign to keep me there to get going, but it felt wrong to call it so early without Pancake and Trout's reasons.

Rain and rocky terrain made it slow going, so I only did a few more miles before finding a campsite for the night. At dinner I discovered that I only had one more day of food left... which means a big day tomorrow to make it to Hamburg for a resupply. :(

Start: PA 284
End: New Tripoli Campsite
Distance: 12 miles

Day 88 - Trail Angel Tim, Take 2 (27/9/2016)

It rained all night, making it tough to get out of bed. I headed out to the shelter where I hoped to find Pancake and Trout, and have a quick coffee before braving the wet. They were there, and Pancake and I chilled a bit while hikers came and went. I saw Crunchy for the first time in a long time, and then on my way out I saw Beef Jerky! He'd been off trail for a wedding, and was just getting back.

While I was sitting around, I realised that I was now in the area that Tim from PA had said he could help me out if I needed it. I gave him a call and he offered to pick the three of us up, give us dinner, showers, laundry and a warm place to sleep.

Yep, that's right. Another night off trail. I could get used to this kind of hiking.

The only catch was I had to do 19 miles in about 7 hours, so off I went. Pennsylvania is pretty much as rocky as they say it is, but I was motivated by food and Tim. I was happy to get within a mile of our destination, right until I discovered that most of that mile was one of the more treacherous rock scrambles I've had to do this trip.

Still, I made it, and Tim took us out for dinner, took us to a grocery store for resupply, gave us showers, laundry, and a sampling of his various flavoured vodkas, and then packed us off to bed. All in all is was a great night of examining Tim's ax collection, chatting about travel and hiking, and generally enjoying some good company.

Start: Hahn's Lookout
End: PA 284 (Le High Gap)
Distance: 18.7 miles

Day 87 - Rain. Rain! (26/9/2016)

I needed fuel today, so I popped in to Wind Gap for a brief resupply and battery recharge. Pancake and Trout continued on, and I was hoping to catch up to them. Sadly darkness arrived to early, and the rocky terrain makes night hiking tricky so I camped down. The forecast is for a lot of rain tonight, and over the next few days - which is bittersweet: on the one hand, it means wet camping and walking, on the other it means cooler temperatures and better water sources.

Start: Mt Minski Peak
End: near Hahn's Lookout
Distance: 12.8 miles

Day 86 - Pouch and Pennsylvania (25/9/2016)

This morning, I packed Pouch up to rejoin me on the trail. Pancake's friend Carla (who had done the 100 Mile Wilderness with her) agreed to drive us to the trail and do a day hike with us to Delaware Water Gap. Trout and I were pretty excited to meet her since Pancake had been talking about her for months.

On the way we gave her a trail name that is unfit to print, so I started referring to her as SC. Which seems to have stuck.

The best part of today, though, was crossing into Pennsylvania! NOBOs have been telling us that Pennsylvania was hellish for months. All sharp rocks and dead shoes. I'm dreading it.

SC and Pancake cross into Pennsylvania!

Start: Mohican Outdoor Center
End: Mt Minski peak
Distance: 15.5 Miles

Days 83 through 85 - That NOBO Life (22-24/9/2016)

For the last few days, I've been walking in the reverse direction to my usual southward wandering. On the first day, we picked up Trout (!) and he joined us slacking and relaxing at Pancake's place. Being a NOBO, I kept crossing paths with a whole bunch of SOBOs that were either a bit behind or a bit ahead of me. Every day I'd pass Ducky, Bunchy, Cinderella, & Waterboy, and now I'm hoping to hike with them all more (could be tough... most of them are faster than me).

The best part is that we were able to do 60 miles in three days, and I've got a new "biggest" day: 22 miles.

One of the more embarrassing things, though, is the amount of food we've been eating at McDonald's. My meals have been a Big Mac Meal with a 6 McNugget Happy Meal and an apple pie. On the plus side, I've now got two superheroes attached to my pack to keep me company: Wonder Girl and Super Girl!

Start: NY 17A (sort of)
End: Mohican Outdoor Centre
Distance: 68.3 miles (including about 8.4 yellow-blazed)

Day 82 - Unplanned Zero (21/9/2016)

Pancake talked me into taking a zero day with the words "I have a kayak at my neighbour's* place that you can use on the lake." We also decided to slackpack together for three or four days: I would drop her off at the north end of a section, and then drive around to the south end. She'd walk south, pick up the car, and come get me at the north end. We'd be able to carry lighter packs and do reasonably big miles.

Most importantly, I could chill out and kayak instead of hiking today. Which I did.

The only catch is that since Pancake is 8 miles ahead of me, I'd have to do my first official yellow blazing (when you do a section by car rather than on foot). Which was A-OK by me.

Start: NY 17A
End: NY 17A
Distance: zero

* She said it without the U, but this is a proper english blog.

Day 81 - The Struggle Continues (20/9/2016)

Today became a nero when Pancake offered to pick me up and give me a bed, a shower, and some laundry at her place. She lives in New Jersey and had been visiting with friends for a few days and slackpacking Timber, Legs, Pinky Purple and Foggy. That's right, after just one day on the trail, I got off again.

To kill time waiting for Pancake, I went to the library at Greenwood Lake and updated some blog entries. I also popped into a café (Village Buzz Café) that, was owned by Tortuga, a former thru-hiker! We had some chat, I ate (a lot) of food, and she let me hang out while she closed up. Then she only charged me for a sandwich.

Then I tried to find a place to have a beer. I went into one pub that looked promising. As soon as the bartender saw my pack, he immediately barked that I couldn't have it inside. Which was fine, we rarely bring our packs inside, I had just intended to ask if I could leave it on the patio or if there was somewhere else he preferred. The beer selection was Crappy Beer, Crappy Beer, Crappy Light Beer, or Craft Beer. I asked what the Craft Beer was like and he looked at me like I was an irritant and said "it's beer." I just ordered one because, being Canadian, I figured he had to warm up to me eventually.

Then I saw it. Hanging behind the bar, unobtrusively until you noticed it. A hat. Make America Great Again.

Then I heard it. A lot of casual racism from the two or three other patrons (all the talk was politics).

I finished my beer and left, heading to the second pub in town. Before I got there, though, I saw the Trump sign on the lawn.

So for all my Canadian and Australian (and other) friends who've been wondering who on earth is supporting this guy, I can confirm your suspicions: middle-aged, white racists in small towns.

I just went back to the library and read some Terry Pratchett short stories.

It was also good to hang out with Pancake. We tasted some bourbons and gins, and I had some spaghetti. Pancake agreed to drive me to my mail package in the morning, and then drop me at the trail.

With any luck my motivation will pick up again.

Start: Around the 813 mile mark

End: NY 17A

Distance: 4 miles

Day 80 - Hikers in the Mist (19/9/2016)

Back to the trail. ‎Tim dropped us off at the visitor centre where he found us, and off we went. I'd planned a big 21-22 mile day. It rained. I walked in the rain. It stopped. I walked. It got dark. I night-hiked. It got foggy, I hiked in the dark fog.

In the end the fog won out. It was just too hard to follow the trail with my headlamp reflecting back at me, so I found a stealth site and camped. I'm not sure where I am, but I think it's sort of close to my goal.

The others all had a big day planned too, but wet socks convinced them to cut the day short‎. I really like the Florida guys, but this is one of the reasons I get annoyed when we leap frog each other: since they aren't moving real quick overall, every time I run into them it's because I've had a slow few days. I like hanging out with them, but I kind of hope I stay ahead from now on - otherwise I'll probably run out of time to finish. Or at least I hope it's because they caught up to me, rather than me slowing down.

Start: Palisades Parkway

End: ???

Distance: ???

Day 79 - I got the Bluegrass, so bad (18/9/2016)

This morning started with bagels for breakfast, lots of photos of us all with Tim and Kimberley, then a drive to the Bluegrass Festival. I mentioned Tim was a history buff, and today began with a historical tour of the Hudson River's history as a source of ice in the pre-refrigerator period. It was truly fascinating.

The festival was another great day. This one was a smaller‎, local community event, which proved to be far more social. In particular I met Tenley who seemed to know everyone and connected me with several others around town.

At the end of the day, instead of a rainy night on the trail, Tim had us back to the house for another night, and a plan to leave us at the trailhead in the morning.

Start: Tim's house

End: Tim's house 

Distance: 0 miles

Day 78 - Prost! (17/9/2016)

Today I woke up determined to get 20 miles in. No. Matter. What.

I was short water, but there was a visitor centre around a mile away with a spigot and (I hoped) coffee, so off I went. At the visitor centre I filled up on water, had a coffee, and caught up with Broadway, Troll, and Ser Blue. Turns out the shelter I decided not to sleep at had a beautiful view of both the harvest moonrise and the NY city skyline at night. So I was kicking myself for not staying there.

In any case, I had 19 more miles planned, so I went to head out. I car pulled up and as the driver exited, he said "are you a thru-hiker?" I shook his hand and said I was, whereupon he said "do you want to come to an Oktoberfest?"

20 miles. No. Matter. What. 

"Yes. Yes I do." I replied.

He extended the same offer to the three Floridians, and we all agreed. It turns out Tim sells solar panels, and had a tent at this festival. I spent a beautiful day chatting with some of his prospects, browsing booths, eating German food, and drinking beer.

By the end of the afternoon Tim asked if, instead of going to the trail, we'd like to come over to his place, shower, do laundry and sleep comfortably. In fact, if we wanted we could join him for a Bluegrass festival the next day. Peak Freak and Eskimo had joined us by now, and all 6 of us said yes... which meant piling all of us into his Jeep, with Broadway taking a seat in the trunk space.

It's hard to entirely capture how amazing Tim and his family are. Tim is a Renaissance man with backgrounds in acting, filmmaking, photography, guitar making, bench making/woodwork, parks management, among others I've probably forgotten or never knew about. He also has a detailed knowledge of, and love for the history of his area.

His partner Kim is a pilates instructor who used to be an actress, including appearing in Star Trek Generations with Shatner and Patrick Stewart, and in Star Trek: Voyager. My inner nerd was over the moon.

His eldest daughter (Isabella Rose) is studying singer-songwriting and has an absolutely outstanding voice. I didn't get to talk much to his youngest daughter Piper, but I can only begin to imagine what talents lie there.

So instead of 20 miles, I got 1. And that one will do.

Start: West Mountain Shelter

End: Palisades Parkway

Distance: 1.1 miles